Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  1
Dislikes Dislikes:  0
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11
  1. #1
    3D Printer Noob
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    5
    Post Thanks / Like

    Repetier Error at 249 deg C

    Hi,

    I have a Rapide Lite 200. It sat in my basement for close to a year after trying to initially print with it when I received it. Unfortunately I could never get a good print.

    A couple weeks ago I broke it out from the dungeon and decided to replace the hot end with the ED3-V6. In the process of doing this I believe I found two issues which were reasons why the printer never printed well. One heater wire was not well connected at the DB9 connector pin and the thermistor was faulty at the insertion point of the hot end.

    After the inclusion of the ED3-V6, I managed to get one half decent print and then it went to crap again.

    I found that I wired the hot end fan to the part cooling fan connections at the DB9 connector. My bad. This overheated things a bit. Not sure how I was able to get the first print to print half decent.

    I rewired the hot end fan to the correct terminals and then found that the fan was sticking. I would give it a nudge and it would then spin. Unfortunately the prints just would not come out O.K. Very stringy after the base layers. I figured the fan was damaged and not performing at its design flow rate and the heat was crossing the break at the heat break fitting.

    I ordered a new fan, fan duct (appeared loose) and heat break (I unclogged it but figured I would start fresh).

    So it appears to be printing PLA O.K. My first part is half way complete and it is looking good. Yeah!

    Prior to above I was going to try printing the part with Nylon 618 unfortunately I found that as soon as the hot end reached 249 deg C I receive an error from Repetier indicating that there was a printer error, with a message that once fixed to execute an M199 (I think this was the mcode) to continue the print.

    So this is my new problem. Repetier will not reach a temperature above 249 deg C without an error. Is the Rapide Lite capable of printing above 249C?

    Can someone offer some suggestions on what may be the issue or how I can problem solve it?
    Last edited by 3dGeek; 01-08-2017 at 04:24 PM.

  2. #2
    3D Printer Noob
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    5
    Post Thanks / Like
    I'm surprised with no replies. Perhaps I need to be a bit more patient.

    BTW: Title of the thread meant to say "Repetier", not "Repeater". Damn spell checking.

    I believe I found my problem. I looked at the firmware and see that in the configuration.h file the maximum extruder temperature is set to 250 deg C.

    Now my new problem. Ignorantly I tried updating the firmware to the new Marlin version (1.0.X). Well this was unsuccesfull and has now left my printer uncommunicable with my computer in Repetier. I didn't realize that I needed to modify certain sections of code prior in at least two of the code files before attempting to do this.

    I then downloaded from this forum the Rapid Firmware that someone kindly posted on a thread. I'm having a problem compiling it though. Without any modifications at all to it, when I execute the "verify/compile" in the Arduino IDE, it comes up with an error, "using typedef-name fpos_t' after 'struct' ". I haven't figured out what to do here.

    It would be great to get a version of the firmware that I can upload to the printer.

    Any help in this regard would be greatly appreciated.

  3. #3
    3D Printer Noob
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    5
    Post Thanks / Like
    Well I think I got lucky.

    I renamed the declaration variable from "fpos_t" to "fpos_tt" and any references to it to "fpos_tt" and it compiled. I then uploaded it to the printer.
    Not 100% sure I didn't break something else in the process but it appears my printer now communicates well with Repetier.
    In the process I also changed the max extruder temperature to 300 deg C, so I now can print the Nylon 618 and the PC/ABS that I just purchased.

  4. #4
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    3,326
    Post Thanks / Like
    Ive never used Repetier with Rapide, sorry I cant help more....

    Keep us posted on your print results though, Im curious how Nylon prints come out with it

    I recently managed to get Titan+E3D on the Rapides, and i still havent tested exotic materials with it.

  5. #5
    3D Printer Noob
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Apex, NC
    Posts
    16
    Post Thanks / Like
    Repetier works great woth the RL200
    The config file tells the max temperature your esxtuder can take, I have mine at 250 as well, since I mostly print PLA
    If you can't fix it with a Hammer, your problem is electrical

  6. #6
    3D Printer Noob
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    5
    Post Thanks / Like
    I changed those firmware settings.

    Now trying to print PC/ABS and I'm finding out that the bed has a hard time exceeding a temperature of 100C. I set the firmware to 120C limit.
    Anyone obtaining bed temperatures in the 110 to 120C range?

    I also took the plunge and purchased S3D. I'm liking it so far. Does a better job slicing the model as well as interpreting the model without glitches/errors.
    Seems that any model that I put radius fillets on end up with strange artifacts when sliced. This happens regardless of the software. I'm switching to chamfers instead.
    Will the day ever come that 3D printer software will utilize STEP or IGES files instead of STL files?

  7. #7
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    3,326
    Post Thanks / Like
    Stock bed that comes with the rapide wont pass 100ÂșC if it ever reaches them...

  8. Likes titrisol liked this post
  9. #8
    3D Printer Noob
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Apex, NC
    Posts
    16
    Post Thanks / Like
    Update: I got some ABS and modified the printer setting in Repetier to max temp of 260
    I am able to print at 250 no problem
    The bed is a problem, getting it past 87C is almost impossible
    So far Hatchbox ABS has been doing OK with glass on the bed at 87C though
    If you can't fix it with a Hammer, your problem is electrical

  10. #9
    3D Printer Noob
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    5
    Post Thanks / Like
    I have made the following printer modifications, besides replacing the hot end with the E3D-V6:

    1. Added cork to the bottom of my bed. I can reach 100 deg C. It does take a while (if not longer with the cork) to heat up. This is also with glass on the bed.
    2. Changed my linear bearings on the X and Y with the IGUS bearings. Too bad the rods aren't a true 8mm since there still is a little play in the bed. It is quieter with these bearings. I still need to replace the Z axis bearings however I keep stripping the heads of the screws on the printer.
    3. I tightened the timing belt on the Y axis by cutting off a couple teeth. This has helped some also.
    4. Calibrated my axis(s) with a test indicator and modified the M92 values.

    Well I managed to print some nice parts with some black PLA with a 0.25mm nozzle. Unfortunately after the few successful parts I now have a nozzle/hot end that is plugged up. I believe I have the head just too close to the bed and this jams things up a bit at the start of the print.

    I tried printing Taulman 618 but even with Wolfbite Nitro applied to the glass I get too much curling of the edges. The Nitro helped but didn't keep the entire edges of the base layer stuck to the bed. I'm going to try some Taulman Bridge and see if that is any better.

    Has anyone replaced their beds with the Prusa MK2 bed? I believe I read that the power supply may be undersized to support this bed. Is this correct?

  11. #10
    3D Printer Noob
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Apex, NC
    Posts
    16
    Post Thanks / Like
    Good ideas all of them!!!
    I adjusted the Y Axis a while back, and tested the alignment of the axis.
    Guy changed his axis to ceramic rods, and found that the holes for the axis were no aligned between front and back. Ask him in the facebook group.
    When I have some cash, I plan to change the bearings/rods
    and also the hotbed to a SSR arrangement with a 24V power supply. I saw this on the SunHokey i4 and it works great
    If you can't fix it with a Hammer, your problem is electrical

 

 

Similar Threads

  1. "Print plate not detected" Error on Cube3
    By bolsoncerrado in forum Cube3
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 03-06-2017, 04:54 PM
  2. ERROR Code T24: Temperature Error
    By bolsoncerrado in forum Cube3
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 03-02-2017, 04:35 PM
  3. Sensor Error or Not Enough Power
    By refriedchicken in forum Rapide Lite 3D Printers
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 08-26-2015, 07:36 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •