Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  1
Dislikes Dislikes:  0
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 18 of 18
  1. #11
    3D Printer God(dess)
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    1,546
    Post Thanks / Like
    +1 on Cosmoneer's post. A couple things too add.

    1) I can swap a glass plate with magnets for a stock plate for leveling. However, there is no guarantee the thickness of what you used to apply the magnets to the glass is consistent for all 3 magnets, or that the stock plate is even parallel between the top and bottom. To ensure that you compare apples to apples, you could tape over the glass plate for auto-leveling. Blue tape works fine but any opaque consistent covering should work. I opted to just LokBuild on the glass rather than fool with it. But the glass plate does have some nice features as the Cube Glue loves to stick to it, and PLA prints to it nicely even cold. The glue stays with the plate when you remove PLA parts.

    2) Yes, there is a maintenance routine that can account for the thickness change. Calibration is where this is done. Cal1 can whatever you want. This is the reference Auto-Gap uses as a starting point. I set this to a very large gap to accommodate my of my plates. In order for this to be set, you have to touch the screen to the right of Cal2. It will drop and set the lower plate level register. Once done, auto-gap will leave a significant gap which you can then set manually. This does not affect auto-level in the least.

    A trick for getting a more consistent adhesive thickness for the magnets is to place the same magnets on top of the plate while it is curing. I put the plate magnets on the carrier's magnets and make sure they are centered; apply dab of the adhesive*; carefully place the plate and center carefully (some Sharpie marks may help here); and place 3 more magnets on top of the plate so the pressure while curing will help provide consistent pressure on all 3. This helps them remain parallel.

    *Adhesive: I use something called ShoeGoo for my adhesive. I like this better than RTV since it peels off easier... specially when you have to lift the magnets a little to get it started. If it is adhered too well, as in with RTV, you could break the magnet or the B-glass plate. I am not a ShoeGoo shill but as a clean removable adhesive, it rocks! It acts a lot like those pull-n-peel picture holding pads.

  2. #12
    Regular 3D Printer
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Posts
    46
    Post Thanks / Like
    Cosmoneer and Tommy Dee, thanks for getting back to me.

    On the leveling I've only watched it once in detail when testing with Gaffer's tape as a bed liner and it seems to be looking at focal point of a green light in 2 z depths with 9 points (3x3 matrix) on the platform. My guess is that if these values are not within a tolerance that it can adjust on the fly then it will fail. So it it doesn't observe a plane or the variance of one side to the other is too big it will not autolevel. If you really cared you could try a mechanical sensor in place of a print nozzle and see how close the values are and do some math to figure out how much to adjust the screws on the platform base. Maybe it doesn't matter. In any case just food for thought. I have about 3 days experience with printing on this machine and it is my first personal printer. Most of my printing experience is on bigger machines that have service contracts. So I could be totally off base... just sayin'

    Also glass may just have too much reflectivity and freak out the optical sensor during autolevel, autogap.

    ShoeGoo got reformulated a few times recently and is now sold under names like Household Goop, Automotive Goop and such. It just has slightly different properties, but basically the same and exactly the same smell when curing. I had shoes with so much shoe goo in the day that eventually there was more Goo than shoe and I should have written the patent for gel shoes.

    Tim
    Last edited by tprothma; 01-22-2018 at 07:44 PM. Reason: clarification

  3. #13
    3D Printer Noob
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    lewisburg pa
    Posts
    6
    Post Thanks / Like
    I was playing with the idea of a heated bed for ABS and thought i would do some testing before popping for heated plate, b. glass, thermostat,power supply,yada yada yada.
    being the tight ass I am, I thought I would try something different, and to my suprise had very good results. My concern is what damage I might do to my printer with my method. so I am putting before the brain bank for feedback. My past results with ABS were typical for most of us using the Cube,curl and warp breaking loose from the plate so thinking I have to heat the bed and not being very inclined to wait, I did a test with a ceramic heater behind the printer. the results were shocking, flat and tight to the bed, with no curl. the finish was not as good but the form and function are right on.
    20180210_160421_resized.jpg
    heater is 4" behind the printer, temp all the way up.
    20180210_160400_resized.jpg
    this block is without the heater. it my be hard to see but it has the typical curl at the ends.
    20180210_160342_resized.jpg
    this is the same print with the heater.
    with what I have seen with this test, if there are no negative issues that anyone brings up this will be my game plan going forward with ABS
    just thought I would pass it on.

    Joe

  4. #14
    3D Printer God(dess)
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    1,546
    Post Thanks / Like
    You are on the right track for sure, Joe. It takes very little to get PLA to curl on LokBuild too.
    Just a 5*F drop in ambient can curl the little test print in PLA, so raising the ambient at the build region by 20, 30, or more degrees would be very beneficial.
    A lot of what a heated bed provides is a raised ambient temperature around the entire structure, not just the first solid set of layers.

    I'd like to see a successful sphere in ABS with this method
    I usually get sink in the lower hemisphere from curling edges.
    Marvin is a pretty good test subject for this.

  5. #15
    3D Printer Noob
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    lewisburg pa
    Posts
    6
    Post Thanks / Like
    do you have one I can try on

    joe

  6. #16
    3D Printer God(dess)
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    1,546
    Post Thanks / Like

  7. #17
    3D Printer Noob
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    lewisburg pa
    Posts
    6
    Post Thanks / Like
    the setup
    20180211_121507_resized.jpg
    temps running from 88 c to 100 c

    20180211_121654_resized.jpg
    marvin in process

    20180211_123421_resized.jpg

    left side looking clean

    20180211_123400_resized.jpg

    back

    20180211_123339_resized.jpg

    right

    20180211_123225_resized.jpg

    front
    some hanging threads in the loop
    finish smooth for most part a little rough around the chin on one side
    opinion!

    joe

  8. #18
    3D Printer God(dess)
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    1,546
    Post Thanks / Like
    If you look at the right view you can see what I am alluding to.
    The belly and the butt are "flat".
    This happens because the "lip" curls back onto the previous layer.
    Eventually there is a correction that becomes obvious.

    The loop actually came out better than most

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Now try an ABS Marvin using 3D Builder... You might be pleasantly surprised.
    Attached Images Attached Images

 

 

Similar Threads

  1. [ THING ] Printable Cube3 Hacks and Parts
    By bolsoncerrado in forum Cube3
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 11-16-2018, 10:44 PM
  2. [ HOW TO ] Add a (RasPi?) Cam to a Cube3?
    By bolsoncerrado in forum Cube3
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 03-04-2017, 07:08 PM
  3. Cube3 Subforum - Welcome!
    By bolsoncerrado in forum Cube3
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 01-16-2017, 07:50 PM
  4. [ HOW TO ] Dump Cube3 firmware?
    By walrus in forum Cube3
    Replies: 55
    Last Post: 01-16-2017, 11:08 AM
  5. Heated Bed Failure
    By BobenhamHotspur in forum Rapide Lite 3D Printers
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 02-21-2015, 11:15 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •