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  1. #21
    3D Printer Noob
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    Dec 2014
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    I could press it down, but its way to heavy! didnt get the filament in. I opened the 2 hex screws, so the hole thing is loose. Now i can push in the filament and it comes out down.

    The problem is now, nothing happens! The printer doesnt push the filament forward!

    What driver do you use?

    I used http://reprap.org/wiki/RUMBA#RUMBA_U...er_for_Windows

    NEW : Easy driver setup for Windows 8/7/Vista/XP 32 and 64 bit
    File:RRD RUMBA TAURINO DriverSetup.zip

    and Cura...

  2. #22
    Regular 3D Printer
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    Dec 2014
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    pretty sure the rapide lite uses a modified Marlin control board from the comments page. So Cura does recognise that and can control the machine. You also need to adjust the e-step to the right amount otherwise nothing comes out. I've been using 145 but there're plenty of youtube videos on how you set that number up properly.

  3. #23
    3D Printer Noob
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    Dec 2014
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    Apex, NC - USA
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    1.) Windows 7 Device Manager saw it as "Rumba ATmega 2560" ... used that USB driver and it communicates.

    2.) Used an Alan Wrench to pull down the filament feeder spring ... see PIC #1 .. this allowed me to properly insert the filament into the Extruder.

    3.) My Extruder would not heat up ... see PIC #2 ... the wire came loose during shipping.

    4.) Still need Proper Help with my Calibration ... ANYONE ????

    Thanks in advance.

    PIC #1.jpg

    PIC #2.jpg

  4. #24
    Regular 3D Printer
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    Dec 2014
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    I was able to connect to the printer using cura and tried to print the defailt object but had issues. The x wing moved to the end but never hit the limit switch end stop. This caused the motor to peg against the side until I pressed the limit switch end stop. Then the Z motors started to turn but the screws did not turn.. This is when I shutoff the machine and walked away. Anybody encounter this?

  5. #25
    Regular 3D Printer
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    Nov 2014
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    Brisbane, Australia
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    Synthius
    Did you tighten the grub screws on the flex couplers that the linear rods/screw rods fit into ?
    Because if you didn't then they won't move.
    Last edited by daf; 12-12-2014 at 04:08 AM.

  6. #26
    Regular 3D Printer
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    Nov 2014
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    Hey Anyone figure out where those heat bed screws go ? there is 4 of them, can't for the life of me figure where they go ??
    also those calibration blocks how exactly do they sit on the brackets as its not that obvious ...... there is two ways I got them to sit and I'm not sure which is correct. What did you guys do? can someone do some pics please

  7. #27
    Regular 3D Printer
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    blocks.jpg
    The blocks fit perfectly here ... put them on both sides and wind the screw posts till it's level.
    the screws I've replaced the thumb screws with the small ones as in Cura I find that it hits them when it goes to the left corner when it hits the end stops.

  8. #28
    Regular 3D Printer
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    Quote Originally Posted by daf View Post
    Synthius
    Did you tighten the grub screws on the flex couplers that the linear rods/screw rods fit into ?
    Because if you didn't then they won't move.
    AHA...that was it! OK now what about when Cura sends the extruder all the way to the left but doesn't hit the end stop limit switch? Should i adjust these limits? Have you guys had to do this?

  9. #29
    Regular 3D Printer
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    Dec 2014
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    What is the best way to set the Z-Axis End Switch? I am having to do this by Trial and Error and running the extruder into the heat bed during the process...

  10. #30
    3D Printer Noob
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    Dec 2014
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    Which USB-Driver do you use?

 

 

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