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Hi, come to this forum for a Youtube video and I just patched the software of my Cube 3th, now I'm printing with a cartridge at 91%, I'm going to print several pieces and check that the level does not drop from the cartridge !! If it works I will post it here to give results and give donation to Paypal since this patch is of great help to avoid the abuse of the exaggerated prices of the original cartridges and the difficult to find them in the market ... ...
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@ MegaloDon:
1.0 sees the cartridge as before but never writes to it. It will do PLA, ABS, and Infinity Rinse.
From what I understand, the Write command was removed in two places with the patch.
The limitation is that you cannot initialize cartridges that are 100% and it will not re-initialize 0% cartridges.
For 100% cartridges, just revert back to the original firmware. 0% cartridges are spent before and now.
Optionally, change the spool to a less-than 100% cartridge.
Please... please... please remember to make a donation to the team that did this for us.
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@Programeitor3d:
...and the fact that PLA colors are disappearing from 3D system's site too. This means they are on track to discontinue all support.
Collect cartridges anyway. They are spare parts as the rest of the chain begins to wear. I am much more conscientious of the parts I toss.
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Thank you. I wouldn't say I'm a novice but I would love to try the v1.0. I don't have any 100% cartridges and don't plan to purchase any more. I have saved every cartridge I've bought and used a couple for 3rd party filament.
I know there is already a tutorial (linked in the first post) for changing the tubing, but I also have my own way of doing it. I was thinking of posting a tutorial here. It doesn't require any fittings and uses all existing parts. The only thing you have to purchase is the tubing and some screws and nuts. (The screws and nuts are for the drilling template, not the tubing hack.)
Last edited by MegaloDon; 01-29-2017 at 03:18 AM.
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Love to see alternatives. So far I'm well stocked, but I know that has limits.
Grab V1.0 from here: http://www.print3dforum.com/showthre...ll=1#post39632 <= from the first post
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Thank you!! I did a test print in PLA and it works perfect.
I'm still putting the guide together for the tubing hack. I am just getting over (hopefully) pneumonia so it might take me a while to gather my thoughts. Here's some pics anyways.
Drill_Jig.JPGTop.JPGSide.JPG
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Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes, 0 Dislikes
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Originally Posted by
TommyDee
@ MegaloDon:
1.0 sees the cartridge as before but never writes to it. It will do PLA, ABS, and Infinity Rinse.
From what I understand, the Write command was removed in two places with the patch.
The limitation is that you cannot initialize cartridges that are 100% and it will not re-initialize 0% cartridges.
For 100% cartridges, just revert back to the original firmware. 0% cartridges are spent before and now.
Optionally, change the spool to a less-than 100% cartridge.
Please... please... please remember to make a donation to the team that did this for us.
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@Programeitor3d:
...and the fact that PLA colors are disappearing from 3D system's site too. This means they are on track to discontinue all support.
Collect cartridges anyway. They are spare parts as the rest of the chain begins to wear. I am much more conscientious of the parts I toss.
If I found some of these cartridges on Amazon, I will buy them in PLA and ABS, because the problem is that although we have the filament of other brands, there are no spare nozzles and they are included in the cartridge itself .. so It is necessary to have the spare cartridges to use the injectors and the filament traction system in case of breakage ..
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Don, very nice. It is a very straight forward system. I looked at McMaster-Carr and could only find nylon tubing of the right size. The service temp of nylon is marginal for PLA and insufficient for ABS. I'm assuming 3mm OD and 1.8mm ID is the right size. Also need to confirm the threated nut is actually M3.
Progra... I've been buying from Adorama and B&H. Adorama suppliers are flacking out but B&H has been delivering with free shipping.
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It's PTFE (teflon) tubing. It's 3mm OD - 2mm ID and I got it from Amazon. It was easy to find there. The original tubing from the Cube 3 is about 2.7mm OD - 2mm ID, so the nut is difficult to thread without squashing the ID on the new tubing. However, I have a solution for this when I post the guide.
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Ahmm I understood that the original filament of cube 3 is 1.75mm
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Part of the problem with the cube setup is "loading" on the lines.
My interpretation is the difference between the "expanded length" and "compressed length".
This is very prevalent in bicycle shift cables, specially on long recumbent style bikes.
What it essentially means is that when you push filament, the filament follows the longest path.
When it pulls on the filament, it draws to the inside of the tube clearance.
That difference could be considered "backlash". Say 1/8".
So the "pump action" has this delay, and offset to contend with.
When you constrain the tube in the serpentine way, you get constant stresses.
Just the head moving changes the feed pressure by small amounts.
That is also why it has so much hysteresis where it continues to squirt before going to the next loop or layer.
In all, a simple tweak like this freeing up the tube can really get you better control over the system's intent.
I would love to find 3mm tube with 0.6mm wall. 1.8mm ID and a natural loop would be excellent!
I am also not sure Teflon is required. There are some nice materials that are a little more robust than Teflon.
I spin the nut on the tube with a cordless drill. Pre-fill the tube with filament and get a good run at it.
With thick Teflon, it may be worth running a 3mm die over it first.
And yes, the nozzle's tube is 3mm ID exactly.
I'll do a little searching to see what else might work.
Do you really think the original stuff is Teflon?
Oh, and I drilled out a housing this morning. Not too hard if you have a decent drill press.
It held perfectly fine in the vice. Just getting it lined up