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  1. #311
    3D Printer Noob
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    That was probably a miss-reading. We have some, precious little, control over balancing the two nozzles. From cartridge to cartridge, the nozzle settling length changes. To make it worse yet, not all the nozzle fully seat due to poor consistency with the cartridge builds.

    The right way to do this according to 3D Systems? Or at least, in their design, is to do all of the following with the two adjustment screws that are the controversy of the build quality.
    1) you can level the hot-bed... the receiver of the nozzles.
    2) you can set the clearance of the rubber wipers.

    The 2 screws are the set screws facing directly upward at the X-motion linear bearing. There are 2 larger screws pointing due rear-ward that actually holds this assembly in place, but the set screws do the fine adjustment. This is also where the factory workers often crack the white plastic housing where the brass nut-inserts are. Sometimes just a spider crack, but all too often a full break. I have one with spider cracks and it is working fine. I also had one fully broken through and they honored the warrantee on that one (early purchase). Anyway, after having said all that, leave this adjustment alone! At least until you have no choice. 1st of all, you need to remove the black heat-shield/cover... which is doable, but not sure what the repeatable method is as yet.

    And here comes the true upgrade delivered with the modified or printed nozzle housings, first printed and modified being Don's. I still have a preference to my modified stock housing, but I've also had some luck with PLA using my own version of a printed nozzle. The beauty of either of these is that once you find a matched pair of nozzles, you can run any filament thought them for dual color printing. No need to adjust the printer's head position. The only thing you must be sure of is that the nozzle is fully seated. This can be done with just the nozzle while setting the gap. You want two that are dead-nuts parallel. Keep those as a matched pair. They should print dual-color without fail consistently.

    As to the FW version, it will read 1.14B. You cannot tell the difference other than having a failure with 100% cartridges or the counter quits counting down on the chips. If you have an unsupported version of the toolkit, you will not be able to print ABS. Easy fix is to run the toolbox V1.0 encoder. Interesting note; after a while, your modified FW will accept 100% cartridges. Apparently mine has a full buffer where it cannot trigger the 100% write failure and ignores it.

    Of course, hubs and nozzle are now easy to get and print. Pick your poison and level of difficulty. I still find use for all levels of hub development spelled out throughout these great pages dedicated to the Cube 3. And I hear you on the unfortunate naming of this model.

    Wow!! Thanks for all that info, TommyDee!
    I already printed out one FTF hub few weeks ago and actually printing another one for the other side as I type this. I'm going print a few nozzle housing right after and like you mention, see if I can find a matching pair.

    Again, appreciate the infos!

  2. #312
    3D Printer Noob
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
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    Any news on when Toolbox v1.1 will be re-released? It'd be nice to be able to print ABS without a chip.

  3. #313
    3D Printer God(dess)
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
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    You can ask the developers but don't hold your breath.
    People didn't really kick in for their efforts so future development died.
    The result was the Rekindle being offered on eBay which is now challenged again.



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