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  1. #301
    3D Printer Noob
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    Jan 2018
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    Hi, can anyone tell me how to get an image of the SD card without physically removing it before upgrading the firmware. Is there a mode where it is visible to a PC connected by USB.

    If it must be physically removed is there a brief guide on how to get to it. I see where it is (near the touch panel), but not sure how much disassembly is required and prefer no do exploratory surgery if someone else has already done this.

    Thanks,
    Tim

  2. #302
    3D Printer Noob
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    Sep 2017
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    If you are only upgrading the firmware, the SD card does not need to be removed. Just put the new Firmware on a thumb drive, insert it in the USB on the left side of the printer, then select upgrade firmware from the Menu. You don't need to back-up the SD card.
    To specifically answer your question, No. If you wish to back-up your SD card for whatever reason, it must be removed.
    How to do this has already been covered, in detail, in this thread.
    If this is NOT what you want, what is it you wish to accomplish?
    G70
    Last edited by JackMeoff; 01-24-2018 at 08:35 PM.

  3. #303
    3D Printer Noob
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    Dec 2017
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    I took SD out of my mind and backed up, but it was not meaningful. I checked the position of the SD and made a tool with a clip to pull out the SD. There is no need to disassemble the machine. a1.jpga2.jpg

  4. Thanks tprothma thanked for this post
  5. #304
    3D Printer Noob
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    Thanks Sunny. Exactly what I was looking for. I will inspect where and how to get a similar tool in there.

    G70, As a contingency, I want to take a copy and see if I can use the same SD (same Serial number and activation) on 2 devices in case I get a new one and 3DS no longer will activate. I can't get them to work on WiFi anyway so it's really not an issue of a conflict (like 2 MACs of same address on network).

    Thanks,
    Tim

    - - - - - - - - - -

    ok, can you please show an example picture of the tool being used. Without taking apart the machine I'm not even sure if I'm looking in the correct area.
    Thanks,
    Tim

  6. #305
    3D Printer Noob
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    Dec 2017
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    tprothma.
    Is this the picture you want?

    20180125_153152.jpg

  7. #306
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    Nov 2016
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    This must be the Cube Pro, yes?

  8. #307
    3D Printer Noob
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    Dec 2017
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    I have a cubepro.

  9. #308
    3D Printer Noob
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    Jan 2018
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    Ok looks like I'll have to break down and do some disassembly.
    Thanks.

  10. #309
    3D Printer Noob
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    Oct 2017
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    I'll apologize in advance if this question has been asked and answered since google didn't show (am I the only one that hates this printers name to search on google? Lol).

    I obtained the cube 3 with the firmware filament hack already installed. Unless multiple version of this hack, the firmware version thats displayed on the cube3, is that the hacked firmware version?

    What I'm trying to acheive is different gap for each of the extruder and I believe I read one of the firmware supports this (unless I read wrong).

    Thanks in advance!

  11. #310
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    That was probably a miss-reading. We have some, precious little, control over balancing the two nozzles. From cartridge to cartridge, the nozzle settling length changes. To make it worse yet, not all the nozzle fully seat due to poor consistency with the cartridge builds.

    The right way to do this according to 3D Systems? Or at least, in their design, is to do all of the following with the two adjustment screws that are the controversy of the build quality.
    1) you can level the hot-bed... the receiver of the nozzles.
    2) you can set the clearance of the rubber wipers.

    The 2 screws are the set screws facing directly upward at the X-motion linear bearing. There are 2 larger screws pointing due rear-ward that actually holds this assembly in place, but the set screws do the fine adjustment. This is also where the factory workers often crack the white plastic housing where the brass nut-inserts are. Sometimes just a spider crack, but all too often a full break. I have one with spider cracks and it is working fine. I also had one fully broken through and they honored the warrantee on that one (early purchase). Anyway, after having said all that, leave this adjustment alone! At least until you have no choice. 1st of all, you need to remove the black heat-shield/cover... which is doable, but not sure what the repeatable method is as yet.

    And here comes the true upgrade delivered with the modified or printed nozzle housings, first printed and modified being Don's. I still have a preference to my modified stock housing, but I've also had some luck with PLA using my own version of a printed nozzle. The beauty of either of these is that once you find a matched pair of nozzles, you can run any filament thought them for dual color printing. No need to adjust the printer's head position. The only thing you must be sure of is that the nozzle is fully seated. This can be done with just the nozzle while setting the gap. You want two that are dead-nuts parallel. Keep those as a matched pair. They should print dual-color without fail consistently.

    As to the FW version, it will read 1.14B. You cannot tell the difference other than having a failure with 100% cartridges or the counter quits counting down on the chips. If you have an unsupported version of the toolkit, you will not be able to print ABS. Easy fix is to run the toolbox V1.0 encoder. Interesting note; after a while, your modified FW will accept 100% cartridges. Apparently mine has a full buffer where it cannot trigger the 100% write failure and ignores it.

    Of course, hubs and nozzle are now easy to get and print. Pick your poison and level of difficulty. I still find use for all levels of hub development spelled out throughout these great pages dedicated to the Cube 3. And I hear you on the unfortunate naming of this model.

 

 

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