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  1. #11
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    At which label?

  2. #12
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    Didn't you get a little translucent tan strip about 8"x1-1/2" with a label that says, do not toss?

  3. #13
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    I was talking of extruded filament, its diameter once extruded.

  4. #14
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    Oh, the aperture appears to be 0.45mm squished to 0.9mm wide as printed.

  5. #15
    3D Printer Noob
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    I would appreciate if you did a video tutorial explaining this, I did not understand the part where you put the new tube and the hanger inside the tube, from Argentina, sorry my english is not the best one

  6. #16
    Expert 3D Printer
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    I'm not sure where you read that because I didn't say that. I did say "Insert the coat hanger into the tubing" meaning the new tubing. There is only one tube being referenced here. Sorry, I'm not big on making videos. If someone else wants to make a video, go for it (no nudity ).

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    You can press off the push-nut backwards.
    PrintHead.JPG

    Ok, I see what you mean. That explains why dual color prints often fail. I'm assuming the push-nut is what I pointed out in the pic. How would one go about removing it? I don't think I have the proper tool to do it with. It seems like it is only made to go in one direction and it would damage something if you try to press it off.

  8. #18
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    So joining tubes should be pretty simple with a little clamp plate and a couple of spare round tubing nuts, right?

  9. #19
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    It is a very old tech speed nut. In this case, I put it in a lathe with the nut up against a chuck jaw.
    I push the tube out with the tail stock. Not even a scratch removing it this way.

    However, you don't need to remove it, just back it up enough to get a common length.
    Pushing it back, I hold at the shoulder of the aluminum nozzle part.
    Then I push the speed-nut back into the position I want.

    Problem is, I haven't "codified" the method or best length yet.

    I've overcome the spring variation on most of my nozzles.
    I make sure the tube is bottomed out in the nozzle.
    This keeps a bulb of material from forming between the nozzle and the tube.
    Technically, my springs in the nozzle housing are now "inactive".

    The idea behind a design like this is as follow:

    The heater block is precision machined enough to ensure equal protrusion.
    The shoulder on the nozzle is very precise, piece to piece.
    The installed nozzle pushes against the heater block.
    The small clearance in the nozzle head with spring pressure makes up the difference from cartridge assembly to cartridge assembly.

    I think the above theory was lost at some point in manufacturing and now they just hang in there Willey-Nilley.

    I haven't had time to go in and balance them out. I also don't do a lot of dual printing. But, I do need to do some significant project printing soon with Infinity Rinse.

  10. #20
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    Yeah, I don't have a lathe. I'm a computer technician so all I have is small tools. I'll have to find another way to back it off.

 

 

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