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  1. #21
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    With proper printed fixtures, a simple vice will suffice.

  2. #22
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    Cool

    joined tubes

    20170202_162538.jpg
    Attached Files Attached Files

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  4. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    With proper printed fixtures, a simple vice will suffice.
    I also don't have a vice. LOL

  5. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    joined tubes
    I made a joiner pretty much like that. I prefer not to have any splices though. Sometimes you hear it knocking around during prints.
    Splice.JPG
    Last edited by MegaloDon; 02-03-2017 at 02:42 AM.

  6. #25
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    McMaster-Carr is slow :|

    I was thinking of adapting it to a case to control the movement.

    Vice grips? :P

  7. #26
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    Pliers and a piece of plastic did the job. I was worried it might damage something but I don't even see any marks.

    Were you working on a jig to set the depth, or did you want me to? I don't mind doing it. I just don't want to work on something that's already being done.
    Last edited by MegaloDon; 02-03-2017 at 06:30 AM.

  8. #27
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    Be my guest, Don. It is better to make it as simple as possible. That's never my style

    However, I do thank you for driving me to try a "direct connect". The print quality is markedly better.

    I may not even need that 2x4mm Teflon... but I will try machining it. Then you don't even need the round nuts.

    I'll call this "quick spool". Just take a dozen coils from any color and just hand-wind them in. And remember to load the guide tube.
    Purge and you're set to print.

    The inner case is stock. The outer case was simply sliced for stability and simple loading.

    quickspool.jpg

    Another tip for those lost hours of hunting down the little metal moony-thingy...

    shoegoo_moons.jpg

    Shoe Goo is a miracle bonder. Removes clean and easily. Also comes in black. Now that I know what they do, they serve their purpose.

  9. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    Another tip for those lost hours of hunting down the little metal moony-thingy...
    What are the metal moony-thingys for? I just removed them.

  10. #29
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    I measured approximately 27 mm from the tip to the rim of the nut. All I have is a 3D printed micrometer, so it's not real accurate. What do you think measurement should be? I'll make it the exact distance you want.


    PrintHead2.JPG

  11. #30
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    If you put a couple of things together, it makes sense:

    1) Little rubber pads in the cartridge recess' ...
    2) Little bumps on the cartridge case where the rubber pads are...
    3) The steppers are always energized during a print...
    4) It is difficult to remove a stock cartridge during a print...
    5) Why would a simple filament drive require its own fan.

    I always thought it was an interlock... but as you verify, it isn't.
    However, they found it important enough to manage acoustics with active dampening.
    Active being the use of the motors' magnetic fields to suck up the cartridge tight.

    Ha.. nope, that can't be it either. The cartridges have plenty of preload.
    Must be just to keep from defeating the chip. How ironic.
    Now you can cut away the rest of the case and the metal moony things will help hold the remaining case still.
    Last edited by TommyDee; 02-03-2017 at 08:14 AM.

 

 

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