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  1. #251
    3D Printer Noob
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    I have tried a few times and when i do mine says invalid file format. Any ideas?

  2. #252
    Expert 3D Printer
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    Quote Originally Posted by imotox View Post
    I have tried a few times and when i do mine says invalid file format. Any ideas?
    Are you trying to load it in Cube Print software?

    If so, that won't work. You have to put it on a USB flash drive and plug it in the printer.

  3. #253
    3D Printer Noob
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    Edited, founf the answer MaterialCodeE1:133 for abs
    Last edited by pangoentji; 12-14-2017 at 10:45 AM.

  4. #254
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    Quote Originally Posted by MegaloDon View Post
    Are you trying to load it in Cube Print software?

    If so, that won't work. You have to put it on a USB flash drive and plug it in the printer.

    No I am using a usb stick. Not sure what i am doing wrong.

  5. #255
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Did you try a different PEN of different capacity? fully formated to FAT32?

  6. #256
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    Hey folks, just re-read through the whole thread...

    Now that I have my cube printing at 70um, I would like to address printing supports.

    I am still using the cube slicer, as my brief experiment with S3D and 70um did not produce the same quality of print, but its supports are hard to remove.

    A few questions:

    #1. It seems that using MeshMixer to create supports, rather than using Cube Print to generate them, might be the most immediate way to get better supports yet maintain quality at 70um?

    #2. Thanks to Mythandar that he has provided a working S3D profile, as far as I can tell testing at 200um. Has there been any comparison of results using 70um?

    #3. IMHO printing with well placed support (if needed, especially S3D supports..) should be sufficient most of the time. Has anyone tried multi-material (PVA) with S3D?

    Huge thanks to Mythandar, TommyDee and MegaloDon + other forum members for their awesome contributions.

    Happy New Year

    JH
    Last edited by zugok; 01-03-2018 at 07:08 PM.

  7. #257
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    Two alternate solutions to the 3DS support function:
    1) Model the supports in your base geometry model.
    2) Use MeshMixer


    Making your own support requires about .008"-.010" z-gap if you want to break it away easily.

    MeshMixer has shown some strange behaviors. I have still not come up with a universal profile for what we need.
    However, making supports from scratch in MM does seem to work pretty well.
    The latest version seems to be more stable than several of the recent releases.

    You have way more patience than I do printing at 70um.

  8. #258
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    Thanks TD, I have the image that you posted of your MM settings on my desktop, thank you!

    It seems to me a universal profile might be hard to achieve. Maybe a few different profile that are best suited to different forms could be created? I will hopefully get more time in the next week or so to try that out on popular subjects such as humanoid biped, quadruped, articulated, skeletons, jet engine, Eiffel Tower....?


    I found these support settings for MeshMixer on reddit....might help someone out...

    https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/...ccessful_mini/
    Last edited by zugok; 01-04-2018 at 06:33 AM.

  9. #259
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    Quote Originally Posted by zugok View Post
    Hey folks, just re-read through the whole thread...

    Now that I have my cube printing at 70um, I would like to address printing supports.

    I am still using the cube slicer, as my brief experiment with S3D and 70um did not produce the same quality of print, but its supports are hard to remove.
    Are you using 70um only in Cube print app, and unable to achieve good results with 70um using S3D?
    Which supports are you referring to as hard to remove Cube print app?


    Quote Originally Posted by zugok View Post
    Huge thanks to Mythandar, TommyDee and MegaloDon + other forum members for their awesome contributions.
    Completely agree!!!

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Mythandar,
    This is awesome. I was able to get fully customizable prints faster than it took me to try to fix driver issues with 3D Builder (still can't print with 3D Builder).

    The only wrinkle was that I got VCRUNTIME140D.dll and ucrtbased.dll missing errors that I could not fix with the 64bit encoder (even after installing the latest 2015 VC++ runtime and rebooting). On the other hand I was able to get the 32 bit encoder running easily (but after installing the 2015 VC++ runtime).

    The only thing I miss is that icon is missing and the printer cannot display progress on the model. But I'm sure I'll get over it.

    I don't have the experience to set up the profiles myself and would not have attempted it. Thanks!!!!
    Tim

    - - - - - - - - - -


    ok, I've been doing a couple of test prints and got the alternative slicer working, but in reviewing the G-code comparison by learning the codes, I am fairly sure there is an issue with the Cube Print app. It seems to only heat the right extruder. This also explains my issue with T12 error (print heat not heated) when I had the left cartridge installed and right cartridge not installed.

    M104 commands are for heating the extruder. Cube print app regardless of what side you apply the material from is going to use this command
    M104 S260 P1
    M104 S260 P1

    I think it should read something like
    M104 S260 P0 ; This is the left extruder
    M104 S260 P1 ; This is the right extruder


    My assumption is that there are 2 thermistors (possibly 2 heaters, but not necessary) as I have been informed (I haven't taken the machine apart to confirm). Also that the firmware is not doing some strange indexing of which thermistor is being controlled. Again, I'm fairly convinced this is a mistake. Try to set up a print for left side cartridge only and then right side cartridge only. You'll see that even the left side cartridge only print is setting P1. I also think if you're only printing on one side there is no reason for the second command.

    In general the profiles seem to work although I need to confirm with dual printing (both cartridges at the same time).
    Also as a side note Stock Cube PLA likes to be printed at 260C. I found this out when unable to get my prints to stick to gaffers tape.

    Tim
    Last edited by tprothma; 01-30-2018 at 08:15 PM. Reason: mistake

  10. #260
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    A few things to consider, Tim.

    The Cubify App does report two temperatures. When printing only the left side, the right side has an ~100* lower temp variation. This would be spillover temp from the left side heater, not specifically a maintained temperature from the right side heater.

    People do assume that the temperature read-back is the filament temperature. I don't believe this as a lot of PLA can extrude at 170-190*C. At 235*C, PLA begins to burn and create carbons, which becomes a thermal barrier and can destroy nozzles.

    The read-back temperature is likely the temperature near the thermistor, but the temperature inside the nozzle is much less.
    Last edited by TommyDee; 01-30-2018 at 08:53 PM.

 

 

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