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Thread: Filament Review

  1. #161
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    Thanks for the clarification on my shortcomings. These voids were front and center at 260*C. Still haven't done the temperature modifier yet.

    But you said you were able to change headers during conversion? How are you recompiling (encoding) the hand modified file?
    I was already thinking to update a cube to an Ekocycle

    ...as to the "bypass"... it is simply a very long bowden tube filled with a length of filament. The hot end as normal... and the cartridge end is plugged in as normal also. I have a sacrificial filament pushing the filament I don't want retracting. So the disconnect happens because the filament is cut.
    think of it like having small bits of filament in your bowden tube and ending up with a colorful print.
    A 1-meter piece of ABS went almost 20 minutes for fiddly parts!

    Let me know how you got to recompiling the edited file.

    red.PNG

    ...the red circle is red filament pushing natural filament. A reusable tell-tale.
    Last edited by TommyDee; 09-04-2018 at 04:31 AM.

  2. #162
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    Ahh... How obvious that should have been to me! Like a railroad "pusher engine"! Brilliant.

    The encoder: Here's a link to the page with a link to the encoder I am using [Credit to swwinterry!]:
    http://www.print3dforum.com/showthre...ll=1#post43663


    I created links on my desktop to the encoder and decoder .exe files. Then, in the directory where I am working in Explorer, I drag the .cube3 file onto the desktop link for 'cubedecoder.exe', and a matching .bfb file appears in my current directory (it will have 'cube3' added into the name). Then I drag the edited .bfb file onto the 'cubeencoder.exe' link and a new .cube3 file appears in the current directory (A .cube3 suffix will be appended, so it will now be xxx.cube3.cube3, unless you have modified the .bfb name.) It's Magic!!

    Note that after the file is re-encoded into .cube3, it will no longer have the embedded object image, so the printer will display a 3DS logo instead.

    BTW, I admire all your bowden couplings!

  3. #163
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    Maybe you can help me get to that point. I got the decode working great, but the encode throws missing file errors. I'll have to play with it more.

    As to the B2B, I am SOLD! This system cleaned up everything I've been aiming for. I have a small box with all the printed bits and a cartridge managing all the bowden tubes. Wound spools can be put in cartridges or used externally. ABS nozzles are holding up better than I could have ever imagined. Even 100% cartridges are working on my printers since the buffers have filled up. Short of encoding, I'm done!

    - - - - - - - - - -

    !aha this is kind of important, huh

    https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/...9-f4fc85bac575

    I installed the 32 bit version linked in the "answer". No more errors. Now for some development!

    Thanks for the confirmation on how this should work, John!
    Last edited by TommyDee; 09-04-2018 at 05:54 PM.

  4. #164
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    Oops - yep! I forgot to mention the .dll file. Sorry 'bout that, but glad you solved it (again).

  5. #165
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    Sweet... for the temperature changed and confirmed. Didn't help my print but I am still quite excited about this ability.

    I did go and take apart a few more DLL libraries. Interesting finds But that's for a different thread.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Okay, I need to add to the fact that with modifications to the print file, the MakeShaper ABS is working perfectly!

    Again, we are doing a disservice by changing to rigid bowden tubes.
    For the most part, PLA is very forgiving in this while at the same time, there is room for improvement.
    As to ABS, I am not sure we will find any ABS that will work flawlessly without modification.
    Seems the 3DS filament was specifically formulated to withstand these wild retractions.
    -Some- of the 3D Solutech ABS worked well but their level of quality control on ABS is lacking.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    I need to put a nail in the MakeShaper filament review.
    Their standard PLA plays nicely with the Cube3. It has nice definition and they offers Pantone comparable colors.
    It sticks well to LokBuild, which is a nice feature. Is it 3DS filament? No.
    Close second, sure. In a big field, MakeShaper PLA does rise above.

    You probably know I've gone off and reevaluated the sample ABS from MakeShaper.
    This time going past the previous limitation in the Cube3 thanks to John Tee.
    A simple code change did exactly what many of us have been looking for; access!
    Some suspect code and the basic temperature change solved my issues with the ABS filament.
    Therefore I have to give thanks to MakeShaper, Mariela, for the sample spool as well.
    Mariela, you've inadvertently forged the advancement of the Cube3 by addressing an elephant in the room.

    makeshaper_chinagirl_image3.PNG

    - - - - - - - - - -

    ...and an update on the MakeShaper PLA and ABS.

    I still love the natural ABS from MakeShaper. I cranked the temps down to 235*C along with the halving the retraction/purge settings.
    It is a bit stringy this way, but cleanup is simple and the prints are gorgeous!

    The red PLA too is holding up nicely. I get a few more wrinkles on overhangs unless I deploy a cooling tower intervention technique.

    Both the MakeShaper PLA and ABS seem to tolerate re-spooling which disqualifies a lot of contenders in my eyes.
    I see no cracks or other evidence of re-spooling stress.

    Attachment 2867

    - - - - - - - - - -

    I finally ended the MakeShaper red PLA filament. I have to say that this filament has a very nice mate finish to it when printed with the Cube3 at Cube3 temperatures (210*C). I found that this filament liked to stick to LokBuild better than to Cube-Glue. I certainly recommend MakeShaper filament for those like me looking for a clean opaque texture.

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  7. #166
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    Summary: MatterHackers/polymaker polylite PETG - works good.

    I ordered a spool of PETG from MatterHackers, and received (ta-daa) a spool with the label "polymaker polylite PETG" --the same stuff KHMusicMan mentioned at
    http://www.print3dforum.com/showthre...ll=1#post44658

    The label specifies a temperature range of 230-240C, so using CubePrint I sliced a piece using Ekocycle printer, and modified the .bfb to 240C first layer and 230C remaining, material to ABS and printer to CUBE3. It printed ok, but with some clacking in the extruder drive. (I'm using B2B bowden conversions). I decided the printer wanted the filament to be softer (i.e., hotter).

    So, next part I sliced using Ekocycle printer, left the temps as is (265C purge, 250C all layers.) This one printed fine, but took a loooonnnng time to reach temperature before printing. I also tried lowering the retract from 375 to 350.

    Finally, I settled on purge at 260C, printing at 250C (all standard for Ekocycle filament), and left the retract as the EKO slicer set it (375). That seems to be the best setup for my printer. It makes the conversion very simple - just slice as EKO, change the printer type and material code. (Don't forget to change the code for sidewalks if you use them.) In other words, I just slice and print as if it were EKO material, but change the .bfb to CUBE3 and ABS to make the printer happy. I'm sure you could just use this material in an Ekocycle printer with no changes.

    It makes a little bit of very fine stringing (half of which probably got sucked up into the fans - thanks for the tip, TD!), but it cleans up by wiping with a cloth.

    P1080317.JPG

  8. #167
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    Marvle3D Filament (1.75mm)

    1st impressions
    My first filament reel was black, and I used it successfully to print scenery parts for Warhammmer 40k. So things like concrete barriers, cargo containers, bunkers etc. This was very successful, so I bought some gray filament to start working on a project that required more detail...

    Long term impressions
    ... which is where it all turned to crap. The filament is very prone to jamming during retraction, and fiddling with the temperature and retraction (using Buddy's toolbox) only made marginal improvements to the success rate. Having prints routinely fail 5 hours into a 6 hour print, even with pre-print nozzle maintenance is just not on.

    Pro's
    Cheap, easily available (at least in NZ), and good at low detail prints that don't have a lot of retractions. Binds well together, and to the print bed (using Scotch blue masking tape and kids glue sticks).

    Con's
    Is a religious devotee of jamming during retractions.

    Comments
    ​Pictures shared with Tommy diagnosed the filament as a "glassy / wet" PLA recipe.

    Default settings (405°C and 400 retraction) in cubify worked fine for low detail, but cranking it up to 220°C and 300 retraction were not enough to stop the jams. The restriction is occurring at the tip of the thin PTFE tubing inside the nozzle, using the B2B nozzle setup. Minor stringing and very minor blobbing occur at these settings, but I deemed them worth getting the prints to finish.

    Take Away
    Simply not worth the time for anything requiring lots of rapid retraction. Alright for low detail prints, flat surfaces etc.

  9. #168
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    For PLA im very Fond of Sunlu pla+, good adhesion and smooth layers
    Use that on All my printers, no Problem what So ever?
    https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07WFC5PCT/..._zwGDEbBNRWP3P

    And cheap too...
    My 5cents
    When i open petg will report how it behaves on moded cube3(titan extruder and marlin Firmware) with simplify3d slicer
    Last edited by razor81; 03-21-2020 at 01:19 PM.

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  11. #169
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    Hi, what brand of PLA has been working for people these days? I have been printing with 3D solutech PLA natural clear exclusively for over 2 years, with amazing results. But I bought 4 rolls (all arrived from the same lot number), and they were very brittle to the point of being unusable. The filament would break even just loading it into the extruder.

    I bought a roll of Sunlu PLA grey going on advice from the post above me.

    Anyone else care to chime in? Thanks.

    Other filaments I can review: (I store my filament in a dry bag with a dessicant pack before it goes into the extruder)
    3D solutech black - prints fine, but can get stringy.
    3D solutech translucent blue - prints ok, but some waves in the perimeters, a few times lots of waves. Ruined the look, but the part was strong.
    ERYONE Silk Gold PLA - prints ok, but lots of waves, and very noticeable z-banding. And the end result was not very shimmery, didn't look that good in my opinion, not worth the extra money. I think it's printed too hot at default settings.

  12. #170
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    3D Solutech has been my goto for PLA. I've been playing with some of the silk varieties with mixed results. My metric is plate adhesion, after that we can talk.

    Did 3D Solutech own up to 4 bad spools? I got a complete fail from them once in an ABS clear. I swear it wasn't ABS but didn't have the means to make changes at the time.

 

 

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