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Thread: Filament Review

  1. #141
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    3D Solutech PLA? Their ABS is a gamble.

    I am harvesting ABS from other 3D Systems printers. That will take care of stock for a while.
    The 2013 Industrial Gray harvest worked out great.

    No reason you cannot do the same with PLA. You know it is good when it prints right.
    Look for a 2015 or better date code and you're set.

    My only other reliable filament is PrintRBot but unfortunately that option too is off the table.

    Now I have had some very good luck with the Chinese pen packs on Amazon. The cheaper the better!
    It melts at a slightly lower temperature so it is sure to flow.
    No temp mods; just run it and have a good collection of colors on hand.

    I'm also looking into MakeShaper to see what they are doing.
    They are making (read: chipping) replacement cartridges for the CubeX and CubePro.
    I've asked for samples to compare.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Grab this before someone else does...
    https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...5_pla_red.html

  2. #142
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    Thank you tommy Dee,

    I don't want any other color of PLA other than black or transparent. Also, here is the link to the amazing PETG filament that I use:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    It ALWAYS prints amazingly well. No breaks, gaps, holes, or strings in any of my prints so far. You have to use the temp mod and set it at 235.

    I just bouhgt a roll of PLA from the same makers, and will let you know if its any good.

  3. #143
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    Your purchase choices are a lot simpler than mine

    I still don't have the temperature modifier working and I'm not too worried about it.
    If I ever get to that stage of experimentation, I will buy a proper BFB printer along with Simplify3D.

    So far I am pretty happy with the 3DS ABS salvage. I've spent a year looking for a quality ABS.
    3D Solutech was the tease that prompted me to get back too it by sending me the ABS sample pack.
    Considering the pack of 12 different ABS filaments was only 60% successful, even that was a fail.
    Then I order the one that worked great, and it was the worst filament I've even dealt with to date.

    Fortunately I got past this all this disappointment by having enough 3DS ABS Cube 3 carts.
    The Neon Orange I've had for about a year and half was only used with the stock bowden setup.
    Converting the cartridges to B2B carts made the filament usable when I considered it junk before.
    The purple was still sealed and I converted the cartridge immediately before use and it too is working excellent.

    Didn't hear from MakeShapers today so hopefully they have enough info to send me some good samples.

    I have tan and neon green ABS coming in Cube 2 cartridges. That will cover me through the end of the year easily.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Just to continue my 3D Solutech filament reviews...

    This is made from the 3D Solutech PLA pen pack.
    Their vibrant colors still fascinate me.
    Their ability to reliably stick to LokBuild is also helpful.

    x7.PNG

    source: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5862

    These prints took 45 minutes each (60mm sphere) times 6 identical pieces.
    Using the B2B cartridge system, I changed out the filament between prints.
    As one piece finished, I removed the filament from the nozzle while the hot-end was still hot;
    I replaced the filament from outside the cartridge (small spools don't require much management).
    I run the test print until it moves over the bed; pause; and resume until it finishes purging... this purges all the old color out of the nozzle.
    Twist the nozzle CCW in the hot-end and the screen comes back to the maintenance screen. Press power button to get to the home screen.
    Send the same print again.

    The filament change takes less than 5 minutes all in if you need the purge. Less than a minute if you don't mind the color bleed for a few inches of trace.

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  5. #144
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    Well thank you for your reply. Can you send a link to the filament you are using?

    I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/3D-Solutech-F...ds=3D+Solutech

    It's by the same company, and it dosen't work well with the default printer settings. I was able to get it to print okay after increasing the temperature to 220 celcius, but it still makes clicking noise. I would really love for a filament to just work right out the box.

    Thanks tommy.

  6. #145
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    Something is amiss, MM. Clicking when purging is common... the actual purge command that is.
    The little turds it leaves before each print doesn't count as a true purge (different routine and settings).

    This is one of the reasons I run the test print rather than the purge function. Right side would require an actual print...
    This is a much softer push than the purge routine. It also lets you pause and resume for additional purging on your terms instead of the routine's terms.

    However, if you are getting clicking during a print with 3D Solutech, I'm going to suggest something else is wrong.
    Have you ever checked the position of the push nut on the nozzle?

    The other plus that I get from the 3D Solutech is that it sticks to LokBuild very nicely...
    My second choice is the PrintRBot filament. It didn't stick to LokBuild as well, but in general, it made for a little harder (less mushy) prints.
    Of course, PrintRBot is now out of business.

    I also tried some of the very cheap Chinese pen packs. It has a slightly lower melting temperate than the 1kg spools of PLA.
    If these fail, then there is definitely something wrong.

    Bottom line, 3D Solutech hadn't failed me with PLA yet. They have a 50% success record on ABS.
    This fun pack provided 5 PLA colors and one was from a spool of 3D Solutech's PLA. They ran one after the other without interruption or failure.

    I can only recommend going back to the baseline... see what 3DS PLA is doing with the stock print.

    BTW: I am not fully on board with the temperature modifier routine. I remember asking about "relative increase" in temperature.
    From what I understood the answer to be is that all the temps were replaced with the newly designated one.
    When I recently investigated a .cube3 file, I noticed that temperatures where being set all over the map depending on the routine currently under way.
    I can think of 3 separate occasions:
    First 2 layers have reduced speed, increased temp, and its own feed setting.
    Normal printing is fairly common, however, there does seem to be a temperature change between infill and walls.
    And when there is little to print, it goes into its 3rd mode; very slow, again adjusting parameters to maintain temp/velocity/and feed.

    Easy to test, however. Capture a .cube3 file pre-mod and one post mod. Run both through the converter and glean the desired data in Excel.
    If you want to post up the pair of files, I can have a look to see if my suspicions are correct.

    When printing, I get readbacks in the Cubify app for PLA/ABS of 230/260*C respectively. I will catch the PLA as low as 212*C during certain operations.
    I haven't monitored the ABS as much.

  7. #146
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    Why does the position of the push nut on the nozzle matter in this situation? There is a fair gap clearance for extrusion. I measured it to be 0.15 inches from the metal open cylinder end (not the tip, the opposite side) to the circular rim of the nut. I don't think this had anything to do with it.

    but anyways... My mind is blown... I don't know what to do. I am litterally using the same kind of filament you are, and it take well to the printer.

    I litterally have 6 1kg rolls of barely used filament... I'm not sure what the hell to do with them now...

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Have you tried hatchbox?

  8. #147
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    I'm considering seating depth into the heater block. One reason we started to adjust these push nuts was to make sure each nozzle would fully seat and hopefully have the same reach on both sides. However, I am not so sure either if they actually seat fully in the heater block. Seems the heat shield can stop the nozzle prior to fully seating also.

    I'm still 100% on the fun pack. Printed the clear last night and it was perfect also.

    I did do some thinking about your plight, MM. There are several things with various implications that could be the problem.
    If I had your printer in hand, I could tell you much quicker but this will have to do if you wish to go through the process.

    Problems exhibited to my knowledge are consistent thin stringy prints and clicking filament drivers. Please add additional observations.
    Unknown to me: Are conditions identical on both left and right bay prints?

    Baselines are important so 1st question is, can you lay hands on a short length of stock 3DS filament?

    The one thing that keeps coming to the top of the list is the temperature modifier. What is the possibility that you cooked your heater resistors? The proverbial "did you let the smoke out of your smoke-filled devices?".

    The heater block is outfitted with an overall thermal break to prevent overheating of the whole block. I don't know what the setting is but I suspect it is in the neighborhood of 300*C. Has this ever been tripped to your knowledge? I'm keeping this to a non-tear-down analysis process or I would have you check resistance values. However, I do not know the original value considering this would require a significant tear-down and a highly sensitive ohm meter. A baseline print with stock PLA from 3DS would help a lot to rule out this significant failure mode. One caveat to this is if both sides are working identically. A failed heater should only have affected one side. Even if both sides print poorly, there would be inconsistencies if only one heater element was damaged. I really don't want to go here but it needed to be stated.

    Sphincter-affect?

    This should be easy enough to diagnose. Remember that the whole idea behind all these mods is to "clear the vain" as opposed to "draining the vain". Same difference, you want nothing impeding the flow of filament. For trouble free operation, ideally... you want 2mm diameter clear throughout. Barrel nuts reduced this to something less. We know this is a problem. However, barrel nuts are not as bad as it could be. This simply means that the restriction is only a short length. This is easier to overcome than a long length of minimal clearance from a friction standpoint. And yes, PLA and ABS generate a lot of friction even with PTFE tubing. I'm saying, test your bowden tube for minimal ID. Somehow I'm sure you've already done this. Simple test is to put a piece of tractor'd filament into the tube and see if it goes through the tube freely. If not, you are overcoming a minimum of this force for the filament drive motor. It only gets tighter as things warm up and prints require a significant number of retractions. I've had this issue more than once before checking all my tubes. The difference is that this only happens sometimes or during certain routines. Seems your issue is more consistent.

    In which case I will talk about the 2.8mm diameter tube pieces. Is it possible the end of the tube is crimped? One consideration is the tractored edge of the filament pushing an edge of the 2.8mm tubing into the nozzle crimping the very end. I've had this happened once when the tube was a little bit too long. When I rebuilt the nozzle, I noticed a tell-tale reduction in the end ID inside the nozzle. This simply didn't provide enough filament exposure to maintain a heated pool in the tip. This would cause problems right off the bat and not recover.

    Carbon in the tip?

    Can you manually flow filament? Run the purge or test print and let it heat up without the bowden tube attached. When hot, push some filament in from the top of the nozzle. Can you achieve a good solid strand coming from the nozzle? Do you have a second nozzle set up to test also for comparison? Cleaning the tip helps but carbon is a stubborn thing. I have cleaned a few tips where a significant chunk of carbon came out. This can come from dust or varying temperature profiles. This is why I try not to mix up ABS and PLA tips.

    I clean my tips by stuffing a 0.3mm wire through the exit-end of the nozzle heated -carefully- with a small torch. At the tight temperature, you can remove a lot of the melt by pulling the wire through as the plastic adheres to the copper wire. in the end, you should be able to inspect the inside of the nozzle with light on the far side.


    I have no reason to figure the 3D Solutech filament into this equation beyond red herring. I have had success their 1kg PLA in Teal, White and Skin, along with 8 of the 12 colors in the fun pack, which I have confirmed with the factory that the fun pack is the same material as the spools. Really, I have no reason to cover their butts as they don't provide anything to me. I certainly cannot trust their ABS.

    If I come up with more thing to check, I will add them. Your plight is not normal. Thin prints are feed issues which can be bowden restrictions or lack of filament melting. I would put the melting question to bed first by doing the manual feed described in Carbon... above. Do this with all the tips you have to see if there is variation. If that is a total sample of 1, so be it. Filament has to flow... can you make it do that?

    For clearance questions, I am not sure to what level you've implemented the joining of the tubes or even the quality of the tubes. If your issue consistent throughout the print and every print, and heaters are ruled out, then it is a sphincter-ing along the feed path. If it happens after a short time when things warm up and significant retractions are happening from supports or infill, it is a bowden tube restriction along a length (not just a short-distance restriction). I reject a lot of tubing for not meeting my requirements. I want to be able to push a 2mm bicycle spoke through the entire length.

    I can only offer this for observations; I only get clicking when using the purge function built into the Cube3. This is true will -all- filaments. I get no clicking with 3DS and 3D Solutech filament running the test print or any other print. This is true even with the longer "resume purge" after pausing a print.

    You are on the wrong side of the pond for me to buy out your filament or I would. I'd rather see you be successful with the printer. Believe me when I tell you that I know your frustration. I went through all of this at one point or another. I know how stubborn I am. It took over a year to get to the point we are now with a lot of failures, or at least "compromises" along the way. If your heater-resistors are in tact, we can get there from here. If nothing else,I can always send you a know-functioning feed setup if it comes to that.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    (I have tried Hatchbox in PLA... It was "crispy"! Excellent definition but brittle.)

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Don't hate me, MM...

    These are the 3D Solutech fun pack metals and clear...

    y7.PNG

    4 colors to go... black, red, white, and brown.

    For what it's worth, the gold is somewhat translucent where the silver is quite opaque.

  9. #148
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    Nice... it looks pretty good. I am still in disbelif that it works well for you with no clicks or stripping.

    Getting back to what you were talking about before... The printer works perfectly fine on both sides with the stock filament... I don't have any other problems other than the freaking filament!! I have a feeling the sample pack you got is different somehow from the 1kg spools. I am not sure how, but I do feel as though if you were to purchase an entire 1kg spool, you would have the same clicking noise, and determine that it is unusable for this printer.... I just want a freaking normal ABS/PLA filament that I don't have to use the temperature mod with! Also, even with the temp mod, they don't always work well, and end up stripping!

  10. #149
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    What bowden and nozzle setup are you using?

    I have purchased their 1kg spools. I have a teal that is almost gone, a skin color (piggy bank pink) that is over half used now, a recent white that was a replacement for the really lousy ABS clear. These 3 are all made from their standard PLA. And I am at 8 out of 12 in the fun pack with 100%. I haven't gotten that level of compatibility from anyone else except PrintRBot (now defunct).

    And it was for the very reason of knowing that I contacted 3D Solutech regarding compatibility.
    They told me directly that their fun pack and spools were the very same material.

    Of course, I am feeling exactly the same way as you regarding ABS. I've spent over a year trying to find something comparable or better to 3DS ABS.
    I did give up and decided that 3DS ABS was the only solution if I didn't want to keep collecting useless spools.

    3D Solutech is good about returns if they are not compatible. You might write them an email to see what they can do for you.

    What other brands have you tried? I did test Inland PLA and it went well. I didn't like the fact that their filament wasn't very opaque. This looses visual definition in the print.

    Anyway, what does your setup look like? Let's see if we can find a feed problem.
    Last edited by TommyDee; 08-08-2018 at 04:33 PM.

  11. #150
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    Honestly, I am just using the default setup that came with the cartridge. I tried the push fitting setup, and had some problems, so I just stuck with having to deal with opening the cartridge whenever I need to change filament. I am super jealous that you are able to print with the solutech filament.... I am not doing anything wrong, I am litterally putting the Clear 3D solutech PLA filament into the cartridge... purge (massive clicking)... Print (clicking every so often).... and then it either strips, or will print with holes in the layers, and eventually stop printing.

    Can you send me a link to the sample pack? I am at a loss.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Whelp... I have a feeling it has something to do with the metal tip. Also, I bought a 1kg roll of PLA from POLYMAKER, the polylite version, and it works 10000000%. There are no clicks, not even on purge, and I'm in the middle of printing a 1 hour part, and 30 min in, and still going strong. I am pretty happy.

    In regards to the metal tip, I need to get another one, but am going to hate having to buy a $50 cartridge to get one....


    LINK: http://www.polymaker.com/shop/polylitetrade/

    The PETG works 100% well at 235*C. I contacted them and they said they would have all the colors by november, they just have transparent right now for PETG.

 

 

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