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Thread: Filament Review

  1. #111
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Wow looks gorgeous

  2. #112
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    The previous pen-pack filament assortment was donated to a "pen-pal" save the one non-glowing GITD orange.
    So I ordered more from Amazon.
    This time 25ft lengths x 20 each multicolor for ~$10/USD.
    These were marked 160*c at the low end.

    Seems all this stuff comes from the same mill.
    Beautiful test print! ...again.
    And a nice hold on plain Lokbuild as well.

    So if you are buying filament just to have a little of many colors, I highly recommend these pen-packs.
    No need to push a particular ad; just give any pack a try.
    So far, this is more consistent than a shot in the dark with "engineered" filament, only to have to send it back.

    In case you are wondering, 25ft of filament will print approximately 2 hours in the Cube 3.
    Made a test print, the 3DS rook, and 6ft remaining.
    And the red is the red I've been looking for in other suppliers; opaque, vivid, consistent.

    The only con so far is that it this material strings more than some. A flameless butane device works wonders on strings.

    additional update: The glow-in-the-dark pen filament is a little harder than the non-GITD.
    A little more work to feed but it is still printing beautifully. Thought I'd add that.
    Last edited by TommyDee; 11-11-2017 at 08:04 AM.

  3. #113
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    Doe anyone have experience with HIPs for support material?
    http://gizmodorks.com/hips-3d-printer-filament/

    Also how about transparent:
    http://gizmodorks.com/abs-3d-printer-filament/
    .. is it truly transparent???

    This looks good but has anyone been able to drive the extruder this high >260C?
    http://learn.colorfabb.com/lets-make...e1c3-232840917

    Thanks,
    Tim

  4. #114
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    I've had clear PLA before, yes.
    I like PrintRBot for translucency. Their natural PLA is probably going to be as close to clear as you can get for the Cube 3.

    Problem is that the geometry distorts light going through the part so you see a lot of interference because the surfaces are not smooth or fully merged.
    And you still have to deal with infill.

    If you are after fully translucent parts, the enlarging of the nozzle's aperture will allow more material to flow. You need to account for this as the part will be slightly bigger.
    Having better control of the BFB file using something like Simply3D should also help get you there.

    As for the HIPS material, it states that it is often used as support to ABS since it dissolves with a different chemical. I suspect they function in the same temperature regime. Why not request a sample to test it in the printer's ABS setting?

  5. #115
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    You can add to the list that AMOLEN isn't very good! I got the standard black PLA from them and ended up returning it. It was really stringy, the parts were brittle and had that "crackle" when squeezed and the size of the filament increased to where it wouldn't go through the gears anymore about 50 or 60 grams into the roll. Was very disappointed with it. Replaced it with MatterHackers Build Series PLA - Black and I love it! It has worked perfectly so far. Good layer adhesion, very little strings and the parts are solid.

  6. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ap0c4lyptyc View Post
    You can add to the list that AMOLEN isn't very good! I got the standard black PLA from them and ended up returning it. It was really stringy, the parts were brittle and had that "crackle" when squeezed and the size of the filament increased to where it wouldn't go through the gears anymore about 50 or 60 grams into the roll. Was very disappointed with it. Replaced it with MatterHackers Build Series PLA - Black and I love it! It has worked perfectly so far. Good layer adhesion, very little strings and the parts are solid.
    Never observed the change in filament diameter. But my experience with AMOLEN is this: out of the box with default settings it would appear worse, but AMOLEN seems to have a slightly higher melting temperature and viscosity. With the right settings I'm sure Cube can print AMOLEN just like stock Cube PLA or another PLA that behaves like stock. I've been using AMOLEN marble-like and it's fine with the right settings.
    Tim

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    I've had clear PLA before, yes.
    I like PrintRBot for translucency. Their natural PLA is probably going to be as close to clear as you can get for the Cube 3.

    Problem is that the geometry distorts light going through the part so you see a lot of interference because the surfaces are not smooth or fully merged.
    And you still have to deal with infill.

    If you are after fully translucent parts, the enlarging of the nozzle's aperture will allow more material to flow. You need to account for this as the part will be slightly bigger.
    Having better control of the BFB file using something like Simply3D should also help get you there.

    As for the HIPS material, it states that it is often used as support to ABS since it dissolves with a different chemical. I suspect they function in the same temperature regime. Why not request a sample to test it in the printer's ABS setting?
    I'm now familiar with the nuanced settings of the slicers and if the properly extruded material is clear enough, its worth a shot for me. I live near PrintrBot headquarters and I feel sorta like buying from them is buying local. Shipping is next to nothing, but I still wish they had a store.
    Tim

  7. #117
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    PrintRBot peeps are great. They'd probably welcome you for a tour and load you up with samples.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    @A.P. the MatterHackers selection looks interesting.
    I do suspect that many materials that fail will work with the right adjustments that most of us don't have on the 3DS slicers.

    Don't forget about the drive mech limitation. We have a gap rather than pressure. It is less forgiving about material hardness.
    This additional force stresses a number of elements along the drive chain.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    I see... the MH brand is a MatterHackers "house" brand. They also sell from many other OEMs.

  8. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    PrintRBot peeps are great. They'd probably welcome you for a tour and load you up with samples.
    I've heard that before, but their website hasn't changed since I last looked into going there in person. if you have contacts just PM me. I don't want to go there and waste the time/gas if the doors won't open. Turns out I do have a samples pack from them that does have a natural in it.
    Tim

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    If you are after fully translucent parts, the enlarging of the nozzle's aperture will allow more material to flow. You need to account for this as the part will be slightly bigger.
    Having better control of the BFB file using something like Simply3D should also help get you there.
    There are easier ways to accomplish this.

  9. #119
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    Easier is always welcome. What you got in mind?

  10. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    Easier is always welcome. What you got in mind?
    Hi Tommy, hardware changes such as drilling the nozzle are irreversible, there are software means to achieve the desired result within reason. Examples of things outside of reasonably possible to tune with SW are dimensional issues and can't push through extruder, fracture due to brittle material or exotic material with unreasonable viscosity or melting temperature out of reasonable range our hotend capability. In any case, SW is the first & only knob I'd recommend.
    Tim

 

 

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