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  1. #121
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    Good luck with the sale AnOldMan! Looks like an opportunity to me.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Heads up on the last few hours of a sale on Cube2 ABS filament.
    $15/free shipping (USA) for a refill of 3DS ABS filament is not bad. 3 colors remain making it limited stock
    time now is 5:00pm 12/30/2018

    There is also a Cube3 for parts (may well work) for $69 buy it now. And reasonable shipping. Cube3, PS, and build plate.

    Not my auctions! Due your homework. Just sayin' there are opportunities. I picked up the last magenta ABS cart.

  2. #122
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    @AnOldMan,
    How much for just the cartridges? Ill even take partials. Send me a list of what you have with Color, PLA or ABS, rough amount left and what you want for them. How much for the whole machine with the cartridges you have as well. Im looking for parts to keep mine running longer. Thanks.

  3. #123
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    What would one pay for a stock cartridge that is actually reliable, functional, and presents new ways of working with the Cube 3?
    Seriously, cartridges for Cube 3 have pretty much locked onto $50 and from the available stock, with $5 shipping (USA), you're pretty much price locked.
    I do take advantage of deals on eBay for parts mostly, but also because even the older filaments do work well if not trapped functioning in the stock bowden tube.
    I've used every inch of every spool I've ever received from 3DS! ...and that says a lot. It may not be quite as functional or it may break once stressed, but for the most part, if you haven't disturbed its original bend radius, it will bend long enough to make it to your nozzle. But let it sit overnight in the printer and it will snap like a twig. This is because the new stress is changing the structure of the plastic overnight. I have a 5 year old PLA Cube 2 Neon Orange. I could never rewind it, but it will print beautifully.

    Why all the wordage? Seriously, these printers have gotten a bum deal form day one. And the final argument doesn't hold water except the fact that the stock Cube 3 carts are junk! But I can accept the fact that we are dependent on 2 components if not 3 from the cartridge. This is fair in that we are provided with 2 and good care of these two will last a lifetime. The third is the filament driver but even that could be bypassed if push came to shove.

    The cartridge is suppose to be a consumable. The components in the consumable have a very long life. The filament driver is the greatest wear item. If you can tolerate some grease on your drivers to lubricate the motor shaft, by all means! Graphite may even help; but the most wear you will have is the filament driver gear on the motor shaft. Even so, the filament driver is the sacrificial component so proper care should not affect the motor to a large degree rendering it inoperable. We've heard of one such event... and a fairly simple conclusion as to why. The chip can be reset and the nozzle is highly dependent on the material you run and care you give it.

    The nozzle does require maintenance! My most valuable tip I can provide is to order a 3mm drill-bit and permanently mark it at 20mm. This is to remove "ooze" from the inside of the stainless steel barrel of the nozzle. Also a good way to hold both the tip and the drill bit. Always work this magic by hand. It is the 1st most critical cleaning your tip will require at some point. The other element to be aware of is carbon buildup. This can ruin a tip. So far I've recovered all but 1 from a hopeless clog. I put it to good use by sectioning it to see what was up with it. Sure enough, a bird's nest of super hard black fibrous "shards" were all over the critical surface just before the aperture. If you use tips for many temperature changes, say from 210*C material to 260*C material, you may burn out some of the 210*C material leaving behind carbon (dust does this too!). Depending on the length of time this remains and the more it carbonizes, the more attached to the surface it becomes (molecular bond). Considering this is essentially a $50 consumable, I take very good care of my nozzles. I've run the same two in two machines for over 6 months now. Only recently did I go through a thorough, and frankly tough, cleaning only to learn a new thing. It seems our filament have additives that come out as a sort of caulk/adhesive/goo. I always thought this was from the factory when they assemble the nozzles to counter the spring... which they may well be doing... but I am also encountering this goo after I've completely cleaned out a barrel before! So there is only one conclusion that PLA and ABS filaments tend to precipitate a goo of some kind. My 3DS ABS metallic silver really brought this realization home. The goo was starting to sphincter the remaining bit of thin PTFE tubing. Hence the start of this paragraph regarding the drill-bit.

    And I've often mentioned the reverse wire feed with -careful- attention to the applied heat. This takes out the suspended carbons from dust and burned and fried things.

    And as for the sensitive plastic tabs on the cartridge case? Solved that too with a printable.

    Back to topic... what would a back to basics universal hub solution be worth? I can tell you the most work comes from adding the smiley hole in the cover of the cartridge.

    And first of all I must express the fact that I am -NOT- out to sell you something. Everything about this cartridge mod is available right here on the forum!
    If you can pick up a cartridge for $20 and you have the components to reliably print a few parts, you're on your way to -solving- the cartridge problems. We've even done away with the quick connection fitting s that rip up bowden tubes when the grippers fail or the tubing becomes frayed. This requires a litle technique, but it will be the last piece of 4mm tubing you'll need for the printer -ever-!

    But if I were to do the work to make you a truly upgraded 3DS cartridge, what would you pay? And you'd also have the option, do you want the older 3DS filament or a rewind with something like 3D Solutech? Color choices could be optional as it would have to be ordered. But I will say, I like 3DS filament for many of their qualities. Therefore, between the choice of fresh vs. aged 3DS, I'd have to see the fresh to decide! Of course I'd run the chip down a few percent just to say I tested the whole setup...

  4. #124
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    TommyDee, I already have my cube 3 filimant writeback hacked and have printed and am using one of the open source filament hubs with pfte fittings and all that jazz. Im just looking into getting extra parts myself. I'm probably not the best to ask what somethings worth as I tend to be cheap and do things myself, especially when the amazing community has already provided 95% of what I need. I literally got my Cube 3, printed the parts I needed with the initial spools it back with and hope to never purchase a spool 1st party ever again. Although I myself am having trouble finding cartridges second hand and would happily buy parts from you. Id love to find a reliable source for some extra hot ends, extruders (filament driver), and little chips. My vision is to have a chip for near every standard color of PLA/ABS so I can swap out chips so my software shows the right color for whats I have loaded.

    So far I have only been using the software and build files completely stock with pretty good results. I was just reading your post on opening up the build files and tweaking config lines for initial layer temp and retraction settings. This will be my next arena to break into. Im still getting comfy with my hardware tweaks.

    I honestly do like the Cube 3 and think it has a much worse rep than it deserves. I love the consumer friendly feel of its enclosed nature and if it werent for me being such a cheapo, if probably spring for the 1st party supplies just because of the ease. Not to mention like you said, 90% of the wearable compoents are in the cartridge which would generally be replaced after the filament was spent. From my reading 3D Systems really shot themselves in the foot with this product and how they managed some of the lock downs and failure to acknowledge legit issues like the filament tubing between the cart and the hot end. Once I get everything prettied up I'll post some photos of my setup to see of anyone has any critiques and/or suggestions for improvement.

    Thanks for taking note of my comments and I hope you have a great new years.

    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    What would one pay for a stock cartridge that is actually reliable, functional, and presents new ways of working with the Cube 3?
    Seriously, cartridges for Cube 3 have pretty much locked onto $50 and from the available stock, with $5 shipping (USA), you're pretty much price locked.
    I do take advantage of deals on eBay for parts mostly, but also because even the older filaments do work well if not trapped functioning in the stock bowden tube.
    I've used every inch of every spool I've ever received from 3DS! ...and that says a lot. It may not be quite as functional or it may break once stressed, but for the most part, if you haven't disturbed its original bend radius, it will bend long enough to make it to your nozzle. But let it sit overnight in the printer and it will snap like a twig. This is because the new stress is changing the structure of the plastic overnight. I have a 5 year old PLA Cube 2 Neon Orange. I could never rewind it, but it will print beautifully.

    Why all the wordage? Seriously, these printers have gotten a bum deal form day one. And the final argument doesn't hold water except the fact that the stock Cube 3 carts are junk! But I can accept the fact that we are dependent on 2 components if not 3 from the cartridge. This is fair in that we are provided with 2 and good care of these two will last a lifetime. The third is the filament driver but even that could be bypassed if push came to shove.

    The cartridge is suppose to be a consumable. The components in the consumable have a very long life. The filament driver is the greatest wear item. If you can tolerate some grease on your drivers to lubricate the motor shaft, by all means! Graphite may even help; but the most wear you will have is the filament driver gear on the motor shaft. Even so, the filament driver is the sacrificial component so proper care should not affect the motor to a large degree rendering it inoperable. We've heard of one such event... and a fairly simple conclusion as to why. The chip can be reset and the nozzle is highly dependent on the material you run and care you give it.

    The nozzle does require maintenance! My most valuable tip I can provide is to order a 3mm drill-bit and permanently mark it at 20mm. This is to remove "ooze" from the inside of the stainless steel barrel of the nozzle. Also a good way to hold both the tip and the drill bit. Always work this magic by hand. It is the 1st most critical cleaning your tip will require at some point. The other element to be aware of is carbon buildup. This can ruin a tip. So far I've recovered all but 1 from a hopeless clog. I put it to good use by sectioning it to see what was up with it. Sure enough, a bird's nest of super hard black fibrous "shards" were all over the critical surface just before the aperture. If you use tips for many temperature changes, say from 210*C material to 260*C material, you may burn out some of the 210*C material leaving behind carbon (dust does this too!). Depending on the length of time this remains and the more it carbonizes, the more attached to the surface it becomes (molecular bond). Considering this is essentially a $50 consumable, I take very good care of my nozzles. I've run the same two in two machines for over 6 months now. Only recently did I go through a thorough, and frankly tough, cleaning only to learn a new thing. It seems our filament have additives that come out as a sort of caulk/adhesive/goo. I always thought this was from the factory when they assemble the nozzles to counter the spring... which they may well be doing... but I am also encountering this goo after I've completely cleaned out a barrel before! So there is only one conclusion that PLA and ABS filaments tend to precipitate a goo of some kind. My 3DS ABS metallic silver really brought this realization home. The goo was starting to sphincter the remaining bit of thin PTFE tubing. Hence the start of this paragraph regarding the drill-bit.

    And I've often mentioned the reverse wire feed with -careful- attention to the applied heat. This takes out the suspended carbons from dust and burned and fried things.

    And as for the sensitive plastic tabs on the cartridge case? Solved that too with a printable.

    Back to topic... what would a back to basics universal hub solution be worth? I can tell you the most work comes from adding the smiley hole in the cover of the cartridge.

    And first of all I must express the fact that I am -NOT- out to sell you something. Everything about this cartridge mod is available right here on the forum!
    If you can pick up a cartridge for $20 and you have the components to reliably print a few parts, you're on your way to -solving- the cartridge problems. We've even done away with the quick connection fitting s that rip up bowden tubes when the grippers fail or the tubing becomes frayed. This requires a litle technique, but it will be the last piece of 4mm tubing you'll need for the printer -ever-!

    But if I were to do the work to make you a truly upgraded 3DS cartridge, what would you pay? And you'd also have the option, do you want the older 3DS filament or a rewind with something like 3D Solutech? Color choices could be optional as it would have to be ordered. But I will say, I like 3DS filament for many of their qualities. Therefore, between the choice of fresh vs. aged 3DS, I'd have to see the fresh to decide! Of course I'd run the chip down a few percent just to say I tested the whole setup...

  5. #125
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    I suppose the question was as much philosophic as it was an offer. I completely understand your position as that is me too.

    However, I will suggest you check out the universal hub thread. It goes back and makes use of the cartridge shell. I won't look back.

    Chips! Well, I've been buying cubepro and cube2 carts that have chips, but they need reprogrammed. Filament drivers I seem to have at various states of mod to the housing. Now nozzles you have to pry out of my hands. Right now there is a $20.xx eBay sale but add shipping. I have a lot of cartridges paired with printers but my average cost is still nearly $40 to my door. And even that requires patience. However, I do use the entire cartridge sans nozzle housing plastics. Tubing is salvageable as shape memory is one of the neat features of Teflon.

    Let's see, one printer? ABS paired and PLA paired... any Infinity Rinse? Ekocycle conversions? PETG on Cube 3 !!!

    There are a few good people that deserve a whole lot of credit to get us here. And yes, the hacking effort is still underway. We're down to hacking the app configs!

    These are great little printers. I am highly vested in their being successful. I really want to have the CubePro app poop out good g-code ready to splice into the Cube 3 print file. And that will require hacking the CubePro v1.87 app to output CubePro quality files with feed and speed settings based on the Cube3 geometry (the filament feed mechanisms are different).

    Enjoy printing. Let me know where I can help.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Okay good people. Time to recover some of my chip resetting development expenses.

    Now that I have the ReCube Pro working (thank you again, Tomuro!), I have a few extra chips on my hands.

    Free shipping to USA for any settings I can successfully send to the chip; $15/USD . Worldwide, you cover shipping with verified address.

    You pick the parameters you want the chip burned with.

    Cube Pro
    Cube 3
    Ekocycle

    Valid material selection
    Valid color selection
    Valid amount in % selection +/-1%

    I can also try to reset your chips for $5/USD if successful. ( I've seen blank chips which ReCube will not update )
    Self addressed stamped return envelope to be included with your request.
    Mailing will be to the USA.
    Hopefully some more local EU and Asia based people will sign up for providing this service also.

    Private message me for further details.

    I really have no love for selling things online, but this is one that comes up often enough. I have maybe a dozen chips I can now part with. I use PayPal.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Okay good people. Looks like I need to let one of my Cube3 printers go to cover the newly acquired CubePro.

    I have a printer I called HotBot that has been used 3 times to bring cartridges down to 98% running the test print.
    It is bone stock including v1.14B F/W; functions perfectly and is ready for deployment. In all respects, this printer is new, registered, and tested.

    I want $200 plus shipping out of PDX (Portland, OR) and it is complete! Local pickup highly encouraged!

    I will offer an upgrade to both cartridges to dual Back-to-Basics filament feed system upgrades and two spare cartridge chips set up however you like. These upgrades include 2 full sets of the Universal Hub upgrades by rebuilding the included cartridges and in addition, I will program 2 chips to any valid material the Cube3 supports. Having a spare Infinity Rinse chip and a spare ABS chip will make sure you have everything you need.

    What you will need to decide is if the build plate should have LokBuild as a build surface added. I'll leave that up to you to manage.

    Please, USA (ConUS) limited unless you help me jump through the international hoops. I'm sure there will be some kind of duty attached once it crosses a border.

    PM me with your inquiries.

    (I also have a limited color selection for the two cartridges. I forget what the stock carts were but I know I also have blue and red as substitutes if that helps.)

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Interesting... the seller of the CubePro Duo's has changed the freight costs.
    The auction is now $249 freight for the first and $99 for additional units.
    It was $199 freight for the first unit and $125 for additional freight per unit.

    Now it feels like I've saved another $50!

    Seriously though, $200-freight from Cali to Oregon is high. But from Cali to New York, not so much.
    I can almost drive the distance and still make it worth my while.
    The seller did add the local pickup option.
    SoCal... you getting this?

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Cube3 cart on eBay for $35/USD free shipping (USA?). Not my auction. PLA black.

    3D Systems Cube 3rd Generation PLA Filament Black color <= searchterm
    Also an ABS yellow Cube3 cart for $24/USD plus shipping.


    - - - - - - - - - -

    This time, this is my auction.. but I'll save you a few bucks.

    Actual shipping cost plus $25 to a verified PayPal address.

    ReCube Light Cartridge Recharge Wand.

    All the info HERE and HERE.

    03122019_ReCube_Light_cube3_recharge.PNG
    03122019_ReCube_Light_options.PNG
    recubeworking.PNG
    03122019_ReCube_Light_access.PNG
    recube_wand_ebay4.PNG
    Last edited by TommyDee; 03-30-2019 at 11:12 PM.

  6. #126
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    Anyone have hot ends for sale? in the U.S.

  7. #127
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    For Cube3? What's your offer I can be convinced.

    Seriously, I have a pretty good collection of cube 3 cartridge parts.
    Not sure as to what all you wish included.
    If you need more than just the metal nozzle piece, I need to understand that.
    The stock bowden tube does not survive a rebuild where there are two small nubs molded in the caterpillar track that engage at the inlet side of the gray housing.
    I can go as far as a complete stock nozzle chain never disassembled if that is what you need.
    Last edited by TommyDee; 04-06-2019 at 09:14 PM.

  8. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    For Cube3? What's your offer I can be convinced.

    Seriously, I have a pretty good collection of cube 3 cartridge parts.
    Not sure as to what all you wish included.
    If you need more than just the metal nozzle piece, I need to understand that.
    The stock bowden tube does not survive a rebuild where there are two small nubs molded in the caterpillar track that engage at the inlet side of the gray housing.
    I can go as far as a complete stock nozzle chain never disassembled if that is what you need.
    This is what I was converting to :
    https://images.app.goo.gl/tSqW4LH49Eu5eTkr5

    Except I messed up the hot end

    Im up for just getting the original hot end plastic part and using those
    M6 Pneumatic quick fitting

    I was converting to this setup :
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2735871 which the designer was nice enough to print the hot end parts in the high temp plastic and send to me.

    Im completely out of hot ends (kids made off with the parts and havent found them since ) and didnt want to pay 50.00 to get a new cart and hack off the head.

  9. #129
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    Totally understood. Yes, I can help you.

    Cheapest shipping is only the nozzle with the push nut removed but included (the flange thingy). That's a stamp and an envelope.
    I'll do $12 all in for this one time deal and I'll make it a brand new nozzle.

    Making things bulkier for mail just eats up postage and maybe we should talk about a more complete solution to make shipping worthwhile.
    Springs and nozzles are the obvious limiting factors for replacements.
    I do not use stock plastics anymore and have a pile of them.

    We can start the easy route to get you up and running again, and if you wish, we can expand on that at a later time.

  10. #130
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    Is that the nozzle with hot ends already put in ? I dont need the push nut part. I have 12 of them .
    And how do i send youoney for this?

 

 

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