The Printing Lounge

[TommyDee]

This is a place to shoot the breeze and give thought to anything and everything.
Keep it civil, please.

[TommyDee]

My favorite test print is the 3D Systems Rook.
2 hours on PLA with plenty of features to discern issues with your printer or filament.

At one time, 3D Systems sent me the rook to test the printer.

Anyway, since I am collecting a number of these, I thought these could become gnomes.
I was thinking we start leaving them in places we visit like Starbucks, the grocery store, DMV...

I wonder just how long it will take for you to start seeing your prints another time.

Whatever your favorite test print is, let me know what you think of this idea.

What luck... found the thingiverse version.
Odd, appears to be exactly the same as 3D Systems version
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:99028

broken_rook.PNG

[TommyDee]

winder1.PNGwinder2.PNGwinder3.PNGwinder4.PNGre-winder.PNG

Working on a printed re-winder.

So far so good.
Wound a stock spool within a few minutes.

Updates from the image is a taller holder for the 3DS spool with a little less clearance.

just screw the two spool flanges to a piece of wood or bolt them into your workbench... whatever

A little Lego device that can layer better on the target spool would be cool.
We can drive Lego with the teeth on the 3DS spool.

Some notes:
The handle presses into the ring. It has about 10 degrees of freedom. It is snug fit, but spins easily when winding.

[TommyDee]

HELP!!!

I need to know how to best remove acrylic adhesive completely.

bare_build_plate.PNG

Magnets are 18.98mm x 2.35mm

Pockets are 19.4mm on 64mm center; 2.65mm deep.
Pattern centered on an overall 170mm x 170mm; corner radii ~R3mm.

[Programeitor3d]

It's a good idea, also think of using a rotating base like the old TVs or the cakes:

http://www.ebay.es/itm/Modelado-TV-t...cR-AhzMl5CfkHQ

http://www.ebay.es/itm/Soporte-Base-...AAAOSw7ThUiqjX

[TommyDee]

I actually have a nice marble version. For the source spool, you want the resistance, but yes, great idea for the target spool.

[TommyDee]

Xylene... that takes off just about everything. Horrible stuff!

And it also melts the original print-bed plastic material.

As to the plastic used, it is almost mirror polish on the adhered side.
If you can peel it off cleanly, you will probably have a clean adhesive surface to re-apply your own material.

This material is very shiny but scratches easily on the adhered side. It is 0.8mm thick (1/32"?)
It appears to have a filler. It snaps when it breaks and can leave sharp edges. S
cores easily, and breaks along score within reason.

Remember that this is an earlier material that does not pit as later versions do with ABS!

bed_plastic.PNG

The plate after some serious scouring. Wiped the plastic with xylene which now display an interesting texture.

afterxylene.PNG

And after all that, alumina plate included, I ended up having to adhere with tape!
The alumina is just too cold to the touch, and too smooth to hold anything even using Cube-Glue.

sticking.PNG

In the end, I will probably order a new plate from 3DS. This one will be a nice test unit for heating.
I have no experience with a heated bed.

[TommyDee]

Seems to require a thermal barrier. I put a very thin "post-it" type tape on there and it worked well with glue on that.

What is the magic behind the blue tape that creates such a good hold?

[TommyDee]

White polycarbonate? ...and later replaced with white Delrin?

[TommyDee]

Ha! I put the apex magnet in upside down! And it's working!! Sorta.....

Oops, not upside down... I put the tray in backwards!

Did a nice job on the knight.