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  1. #161
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    Nov 2016
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    Good to know, thanks.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Interesting new finding:

    I've been busy converting a lot of old hub parts to B2B cartridges.
    Today I posted the newer style cartridge cover modification to maintain aesthetics and functionality.
    And I will confirm here that a scroll saw makes short work of this.
    Of course, the marking, cutting, filing and sanding can be as quick as 5 minutes (more time to clean up than the actual work!),
    My attempts at near perfection is around 1 hours per cover.
    With the window cleared out, you will also find that taking the cartridge apart is quite simple as long as you have a tool to unclip the center tabs.

    However, this post is about the really badly damaged caterpillar track covered tubing.
    It also means you need to have that exactly 2mm diameter rod of some kind.

    What I learned yesterday is in keeping what I know about Teflon (PTFE).
    I had a piece of old stock tubing laying around. This is one where a filament will bunch up if it gets too wide from pumping back and forth.
    This particular piece clearly showed deformation when the exoskeleton was added to the tubing.
    The 6" long 2mm drill rod that I have didn't want to go in at all. After a little convincing, the ID opened up to the original size and the rod was a normal snug fit.
    However, the outside remained deformed misshaping the tube and little fuzzies on the surface.

    Remember that ABS core for the B2B nozzle? Remember I said it wants a 2.8mm drill run through it?
    Well, once I got the core to be the right size to snugly fit the tubing, I could use the core to "restore" the Teflon tubing to its original conditions (okay, 95+% maybe).
    I put the rod in the tube and slid the core over the tube with all due caution.
    After a while, you will notice that the tube begins to restore its original "extruded" condition.

    This means a whole lot more usable tubing is actually available per cartridge.

    This is the recovered piece from near the stock hot-end. The threaded parts was obviously cut and discarded.


    ...this is quite consistent from what I know about Teflon. It only changes shape under certain conditions. Basically, I am restoring it to its natural relaxed state.
    For this tubing, its natural relaxed state is as a 2mm ID, 2.8mm OD tube that was deformed when the nylon over-mold was added.
    Last edited by TommyDee; 07-06-2018 at 12:44 AM.

  2. #162
    Regular 3D Printer
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
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    That cleaned up amazingly well... nice discovery!

  3. #163
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    Nov 2016
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    Now I feel like an idiot... Turns out that common bicycle wheel spokes are 2mm exactly. Do you know how many bicycle spokes I have!

  4. #164
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
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    Do you collect bicycle spokes?

  5. #165
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    Nov 2016
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    hahaha... no, other hobby is recumbent trikes.

    This is one of those "...forgotten more than you will ever know..." category. Also known as CRS, of course.
    When I went to look for some spare 2mm rod online, I ran across a "tool" I used in the early efforts about a year ago.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Interesting... I am trying to print up a series B2B parts and ran into something strange.

    I ran 6 of the hot-end tube nuts in ABS all in a line across the back of the plate.
    Not one mated properly with ABS housing I printed!
    Then I printed the very same part as a single with its cooling tower...
    Worked perfectly!

    Now I am baking up some more bright yellow ABS pasta in the stove.
    I am going to retry the ABS orange after 4 hours in the stove last night.

    Here is what I am figuring with baking ABS:
    Remember how rewinding filament onto a stock 3DS spool would stress the filament inducing stress cracks?
    I even had a supplier tell me that doing such would void -their- warranty?
    Well, for the Inland Yellow ABS, I am going to try winding this on the 3DS spool and then baking it hoping to relax the filament while drying.
    Last time I reversed that process by baking first and winding after. But the filament obviously cooled too quickly to be effective.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Only in America! Okay, only at Harbor Freight...

    All 115 SAE twist drill bits for $28!


    - - - - - - - - - -

    This is interesting...

    All this time I wanted to make sure I got nice opaque filament similar to the stock 3DS material.
    The 3DS material is uniquely opaque compared to the many others I've tried.

    3D Solutech has come closest to date.

    Today I needed to highlight the cartridge type on the B2B bulkhead adapter.
    This is what I found:


    I can see this little Sharpie pen set coming in handy over time

  6. #166
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Nov 2014
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    Dual Sharpie Extruder

  7. #167
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    Nov 2016
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    Instant paint, indeed!

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Good ABS vs. bad ABS...


    On top is the clear filament from 3D Solutech which they replaced promptly.
    I wanted to see how this would look next to some quality ABS.
    Care to guess what brand the orange is?

    I put the clear filament under a microscope and didn't see anything obvious.
    All the little missing zones are plosive pops.

    Now we all consider these plosive develop over time as moisture is drawn into the plastic (yes, plastic is normally rated for water adsorption in percent).
    I considered this too. Another consideration was that a small cavity can merge with others creating larger voids with humidity. This is only hypothesis.

    Now consider this; The last image i posted of this problem was with the Inland yellow ABS. I baked a pound of the Inland and started printing with it.
    It made zero difference even though I baked it at 150*F for nearly 6 hours and printed as soon as it was back to room temperature.
    Then I compared it with unbaked filament. They were exactly the same!
    Much better than the clear sample above, but holes from plosive air or moisture were still prevalent.
    Yes, it could be a simple air puff if the ABS was aerated at any point in the manufacturing process.

    Now to eliminate all the possible variations in the experiment, I used the same nozzle using the B2B bowden solution for easy filament changes.
    The cartridge was the same cartridge with an ABS chip.
    The bowden tube is the same for all the tests too.
    And the same printer, of course.
    So the only thing that changed was the filament and the way is was fed into the cartridge.
    Yellow baked was on a 3DS spool.
    Orange (old) was on a 3DS spool.
    Yellow unbaked was a dozen loops outside the cartridge, old filament spool on rollers.
    Clear was 10 loops from the spool hanging free outside the cartridge.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    For a change of pace, care to try out this little benchmark toy?


    I printed this with the 3D Solutech white PLA just to see how it would do.

    Once you break this in, which doesn't take more than a minute, the nut will spin right off the screw part with just a twist of the fingers.
    It really is hard to put down. I am impressed!

  8. Likes bolsoncerrado liked this post


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