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  1. #101
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    I keep pringing with Bq for now, cheapest on my area so far. I need hairspray for the lockbuild but thats ok.

    So far PEI seems the only magic surface that works on almost every scenario.... Note I said "almost".


    The ONLY magic surface that is dumbproof is still glass+hairspray combo.

  2. #102
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    Or tape... but it peels the tape instead of the part when the part curls.

    I tested this because they were willing to send me a sample.
    And their color is fairly vivid.

    o-fish.PNG

    - - - - - - - - - -

    ...and it adds more types to our database
    Last edited by TommyDee; 08-01-2017 at 04:39 PM.

  3. #103
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    I guess u didnt print it like that right? haha

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  5. #104
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    Ha! Yea right.

    Funny thing this morning...

    Ran a new clamp print on the remaining orange test filament.
    I was all ready to change the filament for the last few layer.
    The print completed with only 1cm of filament left before the filament driver.

    Couldn't do that again in a million years even if I tried!

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  7. #105
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Been there!! haha

  8. #106
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    Aiming for the Lite version of the hub:

    lite.PNG

    I am liking this M5 thread cut in the driver.
    Do it once and covered forever.
    I also crafted a copper tube inside to manage feeding filament.
    No-fail feeding

    Print time is now under 3 hours.
    These parts were printed using this version.

    lite2.PNG

    DSOTM.PNG (lovin' the new logo )
    Last edited by TommyDee; 08-06-2017 at 09:18 PM.

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  10. #107
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    answered my own question from the PM! FABULOUS. I have some tubing on the way to tinker with inside the drive as well, you beat me to it. rocks, just rocks.

  11. #108
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    OK guys this forum is more about the internals rather than the externals.... copper tubbing?? inside it?!?! WHERE? HOW? PICSPICSPICS!!

  12. #109
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    Hahaha! I'll pix the next one.

    That silly little piece of tube in the driver just past the gear drive.
    The stubby tube that still has a barrel nut on it inside the driver, with all its angst.

    There are two ways to remove this; one, drill the driver housing just the right size to firmly hold a copper tube (1/8" brass hobby tubing).
    Its length is little dependent on the fitting you are using for maximum effectiveness; it will be about 11mm long.
    Effectiveness is measured in successful loads; no mis-feeds.
    If you drill the housing out to a full 1/8" diameter, the hole will not hold the brass tubing tightly.
    In that case, you would solder some wire to the OD to make what works similar to the barrel nut.
    This is option 2. Option 2 is probably more reliable and easier to manage.

    I do chamfer the ID if the brass tubing. This just helps yet again.

    Funny thing is, a little time here will go a long way to trouble free drivers.
    From time to time, the drive gear will have to be replaced.
    This is a sacrificial component that will continue to wear no matter what we do.
    Lubrication (grease) will help if you don't mind the mess.

  13. #110
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    Dern it tommy, get out of my head! That exactly what I was going to machine. You rock.
    On a side note, your inbox is full.

 

 

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