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  1. #241
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheUnrulySquash View Post
    I felt really sad when I saw this not gonna lie... now I HAVE to get the tape and glue, since there's not way to get Cube glue unless it's a third party.

  2. #242
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    All the more reason to learn to be frugal with CubeGlue

  3. #243
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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    I've had good luck with the borosilicate glass. Adhere 3/4" magnets to the bottom (from your original plate) and you have a new build plate.
    Any good links to where I can get one that's to size, I rummaged around and found an old print bed that has seen better days, I can definitely salvage this for either the glass or is it possible to remove the ceramic surface and replace it with LokBuild/BuildTak?

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    All the more reason to learn to be frugal with CubeGlue
    I have to be extremely careful, I only have half a bottle left... haha

  4. #244
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    I think the old print bed can be salvaged even with the current surface intact. If the bed is otherwise flat, salvage it! And I can walk you through the steps...

    And yes, there is a 170x170mm Borosilicate plate on eBay. I got two so far. Nice pieces.

    Let me know if the plate is flat enough to salvage. Easy enough to do.
    Last edited by TommyDee; 09-17-2019 at 03:16 AM.

  5. #245
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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    I think the old print bed can be salvaged even with the current surface intact. If the bed is otherwise flat, salvage it! And I can walk you through the steps...

    And yes, there is a 170x170mm Borosilicate plate on eBay. I got two so far. Nice pieces.

    Let me know if the plate is flat enough to salvage. Easy enough to do.
    IMG_5959.jpgIMG_5960.jpgIMG_5961.jpg

    Looking at the images the bed looks pretty flat, my only concern is that in the third photo where my index finger is, there is a crack in the surface and it slightly flexes when I apply some pressure to that area. Should I be concerned with that?

  6. #246
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    Yep, save that surface and we'll make it pretty with Lokbuild.

    First off, the thin section is where the trapped air has stressed the material until it gave out. Under that is the magnet. I'm going to suggest you cut a circle in the white material around the magnet. You will be filling that in with epoxy [and the magnet oriented correctly!]. Do this for all 3 holes. This is also the time to consider stronger or newer magnets. Stock magnets are 3/4" x .1". With what you are about to do, you can probably fit 1/8" thick magnets. Double-check the depth of the pockets but i think you can use these. Stock is rated N42. N52 will be stronger but so will thicker ones. Stronger may mean more sensitive to heat as well.

    The original surface was 'leveled' making it flat. You want to preserve that. I'm going to suggest epoxying the magnets in their holes and filling the holes to just proud of the surface. Multiple applications is not a problem. To get things level again, carefully match the original surface and finish with a good block sander. You can fill those pits in with epoxy as well. Basically, you are preparing a surface for Lokbuild.

    Anything not clear? ...besides all of it

    ...When you apply Lokbuild, you want no air trapped in the adhesive. This plate wants to be smooth. Fill in the logo as well.
    Last edited by TommyDee; 09-17-2019 at 04:21 AM.

  7. #247
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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    Yep, save that surface and we'll make it pretty with Lokbuild.

    First off, the thin section is where the trapped air has stressed the material until it gave out. Under that is the magnet. I'm going to suggest you cut a circle in the white material around the magnet. You will be filling that in with epoxy [and the magnet oriented correctly!]. Do this for all 3 holes. This is also the time to consider stronger or newer magnets. Stock magnets are 3/4" x .1". With what you are about to do, you can probably fit 1/8" thick magnets. Double-check the depth of the pockets but i think you can use these. Stock is rated N42. N52 will be stronger but so will thicker ones. Stronger may mean more sensitive to heat as well.

    The original surface was 'leveled' making it flat. You want to preserve that. I'm going to suggest epoxying the magnets in their holes and filling the holes to just proud of the surface. Multiple applications is not a problem. To get things level again, carefully match the original surface and finish with a good block sander. You can fill those pits in with epoxy as well. Basically, you are preparing a surface for Lokbuild.

    Anything not clear? ...besides all of it

    ...When you apply Lokbuild, you want no air trapped in the adhesive. This plate wants to be smooth. Fill in the logo as well.
    I think the only hurdle I would need to get over is probably cutting out the magnets which I'm not sure what tool would be useful for that. I did find N52 magnets on Amazon, but the diameter is too big. However I did place the print bed on the printer and it still has a pretty strong attraction to the stand, so I don't think I need to change them, but I might keep looking for the magnets if I want to build a third/fourth plate with the borosilicate glass. Now finding LokBuild itself, I did find a few options on Amazon as well, but I'm wondering if there is a 170mm x 170mm pre-cut out there already.

  8. #248
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    If they still have it the 295mm square option is dirt cheap. It cuts very easily with a hobby knife or box cutter. You want the 8" one as a minimum.

    Glad you asked about getting to the magnets. The pockets are round obviously and right at 3/4" diameter.
    What is your level of comfort with power tools, hobby knives or advanced tool operations?

    The white plastic is tough stuff. If I were sacrificing magnets, much less so. I didn't take the time to try a hobby knife on the one I took apart. It was really hard and sharp where it broke off the plate. Brittle, somewhat glass-like shards if you stretch the meaning. And the glue that held it to the plate was even worse! But alas, the plate is not flat, the white stuff is. So for the easiest ingress I would suggest drill a lot of little 1/8" holes and not dwelling on a magnet. Once you get the center 'slug' out, a box cutter is probably the easiest to handle safely with which you clean up the edges somewhat so you can fill the hole with the magnet and epoxy. You want to be able to provide a good clean and complete fill. No surprise air pockets to bubble up later.

  9. #249
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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    If they still have it the 295mm square option is dirt cheap. It cuts very easily with a hobby knife or box cutter. You want the 8" one as a minimum.

    Glad you asked about getting to the magnets. The pockets are round obviously and right at 3/4" diameter.
    What is your level of comfort with power tools, hobby knives or advanced tool operations?

    The white plastic is tough stuff. If I were sacrificing magnets, much less so. I didn't take the time to try a hobby knife on the one I took apart. It was really hard and sharp where it broke off the plate. Brittle, somewhat glass-like shards if you stretch the meaning. And the glue that held it to the plate was even worse! But alas, the plate is not flat, the white stuff is. So for the easiest ingress I would suggest drill a lot of little 1/8" holes and not dwelling on a magnet. Once you get the center 'slug' out, a box cutter is probably the easiest to handle safely with which you clean up the edges somewhat so you can fill the hole with the magnet and epoxy. You want to be able to provide a good clean and complete fill. No surprise air pockets to bubble up later.
    I'm assuming you mean a 203mm cause that's the 8" minimum. Also I am still getting used to using some power tools, and the only one that I have on hand is just a drill so drilling holes and the box cutter approach may be the best bet I can do. Still looking for those magnets though on Amazon and all that I come across still don't have the right diameter.
    Last edited by dndkeg; 09-17-2019 at 06:53 AM.

  10. #250
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    I ordered the magnets direct. It is cheaper and the selection is huge. Just type in Magnets on google and you get several suppliers.

    I did mean 295... I got a lot of these just because they were darn cheap:
    https://www.amazon.com/KudoTech-LokB...218/ref=sr_1_2

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    Quote Originally Posted by dndkeg View Post
    A<snip>
    I have to be extremely careful, I only have half a bottle left... haha
    I've had a bottle last over a year. You will get much better glue performance with Lokbuild. Basically, you can rejuvenate it stick qualities.

 

 

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