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  1. #21
    3D Printer Noob
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    Just started a 21 hour print, once that's done I'll take it apart and take pictures. But basically I used your 4mm hole template to drill all the way through to the extruder tube. Then I I used progressively larger bits to widen just the outer shell of the housing to slightly smaller than the quick connect. I wrapped the quick connect in Teflon tape and hand threaded it into the housing. I fed a small segment of the original tubing from to the extruder and about half an inch past the outside of the quick connect. I drilled 4mm tube so that stock filament fits inside of it. I pushed the stock tubing inside the 4mm tubing and then pushed that new combined tubing through the quick connect. Also made so that the 4mm tube wraps around the the little bit of extruder that's left past the speed nut.

    Honestly though this method was my last chance to fix my previous attempt at retuning lol. I though I could drill slightly smaller than 4mm into the housing then using pressure alone hold the 4mm tubing. I tested a print after doing so and woke up to several coils of filament all over the floor as the printer retraction (I'm assuming) forced the tube out, causing coils of filament to fell all over the floor.
    Last edited by Exudos194; 03-03-2017 at 04:58 AM.

  2. #22
    Expert 3D Printer
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    You had me at hello.

  3. #23
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    For the M5 thread fittings peeps...

    That took way to much effort

    Let me know what you want me to change.

    4mm_kiss.PNG4mm_kiss_ii.PNG
    Attached Files Attached Files

  4. Thanks bolsoncerrado thanked for this post
  5. #24
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    We can't keep it up! This community is starting to KICK SOME MAJOR ASS!!!

    Congratz!

  6. #25
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    Went to watch Logan, came back and saw this mess...20170303_014623.jpg Well at least the quick connects held, I suspect it's the bed plate wobble, will be printing Don's bed plate ring mod next... Also anyone have enough machining finesse to make more nozzles? Lol

  7. #26
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Looks like filament got strangled actually?

  8. #27
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    OK OK for the hotend part I give up on the back entrance, I shall go top then!

    PFTE is too strong for that massive bending inside the machine with the coupler aboard.

    Quote Originally Posted by Exudos194 View Post
    Heres my take on replacing the tubing, using the KISS method for the cartridge then drilling a hole into the extruder head slightly large enough to thread a 4mm quik connect.
    Attachment 1828
    You may want to try with a 1.75mm quick connect version... Less hole, less stress to the already small hotend casing.


    Quote Originally Posted by MegaloDon View Post
    I would like to see the inside of the extruder casing. How does it connect from the quik connect to the extruder tip?
    +1!!!!

  9. #28
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    The best hot end solution I've come up with so far is machining the 4mm tube.

    However, yes, an M5 thread into the hot end cap should be possible, but you do need to "trap" a piece of 3mm tubing inside.
    The only thing to watch for is "squirming" of the cap on retraction. This could case heating errors.

    I'll give this a shot this weekend.

  10. #29
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    ...or you could create an STL of the hotend plastic parts and see if we can fit one of these quick connectors inside, HAH!

  11. #30
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    Are you daring enough to put an ABS solution that close to the heater?

 

 

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