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  1. #11
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Nice to know on ABS in the Cubes....Im wondering why are they so different than the prusa style printers that need heated bed EVEN with Lokbuild. I guess the printing size makes a difference.

  2. #12
    Expert 3D Printer
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    I agree with print size. But also the cube3 is a bit of an enclosed space, especially when doing the first few layers. The build plate retains heat really good too, I don't know if that's just from the heat of the ABS being transferred into it or if the fans are setup to throw some of the heat at the bed.

  3. #13
    Regular 3D Printer
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    I am printing ABS with greenhouse effect! And it goes perfect! Jejeje
    Before the printer in ABS always gives me a temperature error and stops before printing, now no ..

    WhatsApp Image 2017-03-07 at 15.16.01.jpg

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  5. #14
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Que grande eres! xD

  6. #15
    Regular 3D Printer
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    Thinking to apply buildtak or some similar print surface to my print plate.Has anyone tried using any of those surfaces on Cube 3's print plate and do they affect Cube's auto level and z-gap procedure?

  7. #16
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    I didn't have any trouble with it doing either routine. As usual for my machine it set the zgap loose, so I manually set it so there was drag on the gap adjuster thing they send with it. I just need to adjust my nozzles, the left is looser than the right and abs from the right sticks on the first layer better. The left sticks fine but the right is perfect.

  8. #17
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    There is a maintenance routine that sets the default gap.
    I overset this gap by a lot.
    This ensures the plate doesn't crash into the nozzle.
    Look for the unidentified button for the lower limit setting.

  9. #18
    Expert 3D Printer
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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    There is a maintenance routine that sets the default gap.
    Where is this setting?

  10. #19
    Expert 3D Printer
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    Goto maintenance and do an auto-gap. When that's done it tells you what the gap is and on the left side of that screen it says manual adjustment.

    Hit that and it'll drop down and you use the screen to raise and lower the bed, that's when you use the gap tool.

    I find auto-gap sets it too loose when checked with the tool. So I always manually set it. It was like this before I got the lokbuild.
    Last edited by Mythandar; 03-08-2017 at 01:27 AM.

  11. #20
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    I'm talking about the maintenance screen...
    This is where you set the default from where it begins auto-gap and leveling.
    My normal position for my gap is -3.00. I do not gap to this auto-cal.



    1calibrate.PNG

    2autocal.PNG

    hidden button:
    3hidden.PNG

    4working.PNG

 

 

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