Aftermarket build plate?

[TommyDee]

And again I have to clarify my position...
I have always stated that Cal 2 is often overlooked, not that it wasn't in the manual.
How do you think I learned of it and how do you think I learned people were not using it?

And since you are also defending others, how can a gap of less than 50 microns be sufficient for a 200um layer thickness*?
This causes what one would call "Elephant Foot" syndrome. You've seen my prints... and they don't exhibit elephant foot syndrome.
And yes, with the better adhesion of LokBuild, which as you know I held off on for a year!... allows you do to for an excellent print all the way to the first layer.
Mine is set to 0.23mm. It sticks to LocBuild without glue.

What really troubles me about this "great knowledge" is that the thickness of the gauge without the sticker is 110microns.
How do you get 50 microns of gap when you slide a 110 micron thick Mylar sheet in there? Talk about blowing chunks out of your @$$!
...

How's this scenario...
Remove ur build plate
Run Auto Cal "MANUALLY" like I said and set the gap 2 inches from the print nozzle
Save by checking the check mark.
keep ur printer powered.
Put the build plate on along with the 2x4 and set ur gap "MANUALLY"
Save it no problem....

I have a "spiffy" build plate and haven't crashed and am able to set the gap with no problem.
BTW, my spiffy build plate is a Lokbuild and I set the gap to .03-.04 and get perfect prints. I have no idea how you are getting
satisfactory results setting the gap to .23.
Also, the manual refers to the "proper" use of the Gap gauge, specifically stating NOT to allow the nozzle to go past the the sticker.
Sometimes Tommy I think you make this crap up...
No sense responding....PLONK

G70

* For completeness, I know of one instance where this is applicable.

[MegaloDon]

And again I have to clarify my position...
I have always stated that Cal 2 is often overlooked, not that it wasn't in the manual.
How do you think I learned of it and how do you think I learned people were not using it?

Set the default calibration (cal1) under the maintenance menu. Don't forget to use the secret Cal2 button.

From here >>> http://www.print3dforum.com/showthre...ll=1#post43316
"Secret" to me indicates that it is not documented. This is not a secret since it is in the manual.

And just because you saw a video that you think looks like they are using the sticker (again speculation) for the auto gap, does not change the fact that the manual specifically says NOT to use the sticker. You can set the gap to whatever you want, but don't mislead other people into thinking 3DS wants you to use the sticker when they clearly state NOT to.

I'm really getting tired of you bullying other people if they don't agree with you. Why can't you just let people have their own ideas (or state facts) without making sarcastic comments or belittling them?

[TommyDee]

Secret to me is just poorly annotated on the screen. All you had to do is ask and I'd have clarified anytime.

I've read the manuals front to back, what page of which manual explains the label on gauge?

[MegaloDon]

I've read the manuals front to back, what page of which manual explains the label on gauge?

https://support.3dsystems.com/s/arti...Best-Practices

For a good z-gap, you should be able to slide through the gap gauge (from your tools) between the print tip and print pad, and move it around freely but it cannot move past the white sticker on the gauge.

[TommyDee]

Okay, not quite a manual but I'll take that. Move freely is an important change from the actual manual as well. And no, I knew the manual never stated this because I looked for this everywhere. Notice that this compromise was added quiet a while after I solved my issues. And -I- decided to gap at the label, just like the video, from 3DS (and on their site!) shows. That was the revelation that made the filament clicking go away, made the elephant foot go away, no more pitting in the build plate, and I have excellent adhesion even with stock glue and a stock plate. And therefore, yes, I've set other peoples machines up this way IRL and have had other try it with great success. And I will be the first to state, as I always have, that with good adhesion to LokBuild, you can really clean up those first couple of layers. So I for one will agree that stock build plates with glue will benefit from a compromised z-gap. And I promise you that 3DS has waffled on this since I asked before the release of the bulletin.

Now what about that call for .03 to .04 gap. Okay, so the units must be assumed to be millimeters, therefore that means 30 to 40 microns z-gap. The gauge plastic is .11mm thick (110 microns). According the best practice bulletin, the stated gap from your -expert- is also not correct. And I merely wanted to point this out in case development was being done with a wrong assumption. That, good buddy, is cooperation. Even at the very risk of being chastised as always!

And to everyone else that hadn't headed for the hills yet, I've provided the most input in this thread and I do not appreciate people just stepping all over it. That is what happened and I have every right to request the opportunity to be heard instead of being scoffed and ridiculed. So thanks for butting in Don. This is exactly how you bury every uncomfortable thread and reasonable discussions.

I will thank you for pointing out the best practice bulletins and admitting it is not in fact in a manual. It is those little gems that keep me here. Certainly not the company.