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  1. #51
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    Cover the plate with any opaque tape for the leveling test.

  2. #52
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    @MarkRon
    [QUOTE]
    And that 'Auto Cal' feature isn't even in the manual hahaha, how strange.
    [QUOTE]

    Straight out of the manual:
    For this procedure, you will need the Gap Gauge from your tools.

    The main reason a plate will crash into the jets while printing (thus causing a cartridge jam) is because the z-gap was set too tight.

    The z-gap is the distance between the print tip and the print pad.
    - A z-gap tighter than this will not allow the plastic to come out smoothly and will jam the cartridge.
    - A z-gap too loose will not lay down the filament properly, and could mess a whole print job.
    - For a good z-gap, you have to make sure that you can slide through the gap gauge between the print tip and print pad, and you can move it around freely, but it cannot go past the white sticker on the center of the gauge.

    Auto Gap doesn't always set the right z-gap for the printer, so it is always important to check and make sure that it is correct.

    For a manual set up, try the following:

    From the Home screen, go to Set Up → Calibrate → Auto Cal.

    Auto Cal sets the range that the printer uses for Auto Gap.

    Cal 1 value is going to be the z-gap value. Adjust the z-gap using the gap gauge and the arrows on the screen to raise/lower the plate to the right distance.

    After setting the z-gap for Cal 1, tap on the empty value next to Cal 2.

    The printer will set the Cal 2 value automatically. After it is done calculating, it will show you a value for Cal 2.

    This value should be somewhere between the range of -11 and -3.

    After it's done, press the check mark to save these settings and exit out.


    While still on the Set Up menu, go to Auto Level.

    The printer will first run Auto Level to make sure that the plate is leveled.

    After it's successful, it will then run Auto Gap.

    After Auto Gap shows as successful, check with the gap gauge to make sure the z-gap is right.

    If it's not, select the ADJUST option and set it manually.


    Save these settings and now you should be able to make good prints!

    G70

  3. #53
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    Auto Cal is used to set a default gap before the Cube3 fine-tunes the value. Even then, it relies heavily on the CAL1 setting.

    Knowing this, you can set the CAL1 value to something much greater for the stock plate to make room for a thicker plate like glass with magnets underneath.

    CAL1 does not seem to take if you don't go through the CAL2 routine!
    Last edited by TommyDee; 04-09-2018 at 09:56 PM.

  4. #54
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    Tom,
    You are certainly entitled to your opinion. However, I would have a tendency to rely what is written in the manual. Following the above directions will set the z-gap manually, regardless of the plate dimensions such as original plate, original plate plus glass, original plate plus a 2x4 stud. The z-gap will be the same.
    Refer to the above of the definition of the z-gap.

    G70

  5. #55
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    Unfortunately the manual doesn't take into account our DIY mods.

    A lot of people are missing the fact that Auto Cal and the initial "test gap" -are- related.

    This is the "for-instance" scenario...

    Your Auto Cal was performed per the manual's description.
    You set the gap in Auto Cal (CAL 1) to the normal gap you expect per the instructions.
    You put in your new flashy modified build plate that is now twice as thick due to the added magnets or whatever.
    You do the Auto Gap routine... and the tray crashes into the nozzle.

    If that's okay with you, great

    But for me, this is avoidable.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Oh; and if you put the new spiffy build plate on and perform the Auto Cal, the plate will also crash into the nozzle if it was set per the instructions on the original build plate.

  6. #56
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    How's this scenario...
    Remove ur build plate
    Run Auto Cal "MANUALLY" like I said and set the gap 2 inches from the print nozzle
    Save by checking the check mark.
    keep ur printer powered.
    Put the build plate on along with the 2x4 and set ur gap "MANUALLY"
    Save it no problem....

    I have a "spiffy" build plate and haven't crashed and am able to set the gap with no problem.
    BTW, my spiffy build plate is a Lokbuild and I set the gap to .03-.04 and get perfect prints. I have no idea how you are getting
    satisfactory results setting the gap to .23.
    Also, the manual refers to the "proper" use of the Gap gauge, specifically stating NOT to allow the nozzle to go past the the sticker.
    Sometimes Tommy I think you make this crap up...
    No sense responding....PLONK

    G70

  7. #57
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    You're not following but that's fine.
    My printers work just fine as stated above.

  8. #58
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JackMeoff View Post
    Sometimes Tommy I think you make this crap up...
    No sense responding....PLONK

    G70
    @JackMeOff please lets keep things civil. Everyone is entitled to an opinion, even if wrong. The rest of the audience is free to follow or not given advices on this or any other matter.

  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by bolsoncerrado View Post
    @JackMeOff please lets keep things civil. Everyone is entitled to an opinion, even if wrong. The rest of the audience is free to follow or not given advices on this or any other matter.
    "The rest of the audience is free to follow or not given advices on this or any other matter."
    This is absolutely correct. However, proper Internet Ethics aka "Netica" suggest honoring, when
    a message is posted with "@user", the response is directed to that user and it rude to respond to that message by another user. Much like peeking over someone's shoulder to their personal mail.
    Notice my message was directed to the user who asked the question, not to everyone for general consumption.

    As the administrator, I would expect an unbiased, fare assessment of this situation. You used the exact wording from my post which was "Everyone is entitled to an opinion" which I believe in. It was TommyD who chose to fire the first shot with "If that's okay with you, great". Sarcasm. This is third time he has done this and it just tripped my trigger.

    Considering you appear to have a personal relationship with TD I would hardly say you are unbiased. To validate my statement of TD's "expert" opinion being in question. Refer to his response that "M" code has to do with "Menu". That is totally wrong and was called out by other members.
    Please understand this is not a personal vendetta against TD. However, when his opinions are misleading, not beneficial and/or incorrect based on "FACT I have an obligation, especially to Noobs, I must interject.

    My response was based on "FACT" ie straight from the 3DS Manual, not conjectur.
    I also made reference to TD in another message where he specifically said the use of the Gap Gauge
    was to use the sticker portion as the gap distance. His response was "MEH". Sarcasm. Again, this was a contradiction of the manual. Thus, providing a basis of my "You make this crap up".

    I and other members have been working diligently gathering information concerning G/M codes, verifying each and every piece of information is correct, either through testing, internet searches, original code or reverse engineered code. It would be immature of me and hurtful to the community to request those with whom I have collaborated to withhold this information. Knowing their ethics, they would deny my request anyway.

    The posts from TD and you defending his behavior does serious damage to my enthusiasm to post to this board.

    If you want this board to survive, I would suggest you moderate it with wisdom, not loyalty to one individual.

    @TommyDee
    My personal apology for letting my emotions get the better part of me.
    I will however, continue to challenge your statements if not verified by fact or documentation.
    I also will hold myself to the same standards of providing links, documentation to support facts.

    @bolsoncerrado
    If you choose to delete this message or my account. Go right ahead. You would only be reaffirming what I have stated.

    G70

  10. #60
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    Let's do that on one item at a time... that way we can be sure to finish the conversation rather than just making it noise.
    I don't say these things without backing. I don't always type the backing because things get harder to understand.
    People with a real interest in why someone would make any statement will take the time to understand.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    I'll start...
    This is the video 3D Systems puts out when it explains the manual gap process.

    What I am going to point out is where the gauge is on the plate and how far in it is positioned.
    Under these conditions, The label will be under the nozzle. So this is the 1st thing to either confirm or deny.

    https://fast.wistia.net/embed/iframe...h?popover=true

    Around 1:12 you will see where 3D Systems positions the gap gauge in the Cube 3.

    I had never found any specific statement in the Cube 3 or Ekocycle manual that says to avoid the sticker.
    But I can be convinced. Just point to it.

    And to solve your other issue with me, I was responding to John, not you. You brought me into your conversation.

    (edit: I'll add this just to support the video. This is from the Actual manual online at 3D Systems)

    manual.PNG
    http://infocenter.3dsystems.com/cube...on#man_gap_adj
    Last edited by TommyDee; 04-10-2018 at 04:07 AM.

 

 

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