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  1. #21
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    Well that is new to me. Thx tom.

  2. #22
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    Anytime! Use it wisely (this is how you can use a tall heating plate!!!)

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mythandar View Post
    I find auto-gap sets it too loose when checked with the tool. So I always manually set it.
    I always set mine manually with the included gap gauge too. The automatic is too inconsistent.

    Tom,
    I didn't know about this setting either. I read the manual (if at first you don't succeed, read the manual), and followed the procedure exactly. It was only showing it was off by .03 so it didn't help. (Supposedly, it is supposed to help with first layer adhesion etc.) I don't have a problem with adhesion when I use the Cube Print software. Just with the others. I can adjust the software settings so adhesion is good, but then the print head is too low for the rest of the layers and the top layer is buggered up.

  4. #24
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    I suspect the first layer is velocity 50% and extrude rate normal... or something like that. Also, the head temp is really amp'd for the first layer.

  5. #25
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    I did manually set the Z gap too with the AutoCalc button and always wondered what "Auto" meant there...

    So what does the hidden button actually do??

  6. #26
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    Complete the calibration process

    A lot of systems went out that crashes the build plates.
    Knowing how to successfully complete this function is what resets the home location.

  7. #27
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    Yes, both of mine made a lot of pock-marks and scrapes on their build plates before I manually set the gap a touch larger than the 'auto' setting . I have patched my partially delaminated plate with J-B Weld, and am waiting on an order of lok-build to resurface it with, although I may pick up a cheap roll of blue tape so I can at least do something with it. I'm a teacher, and with certain projects, we need both machines running almost full-time to keep up with student projects.

    Thanks for the replies, everyone!

    Gary

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  9. #28
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    Good luck Gary. The Lokbuild should solve your issue.

    See if they have tape from IGP. I highly recommend it.
    I looked locally and only found the .88" wide tape after looking at 6 stores.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    New magnets came today.

    This is in the build plate thread because these are what you can use for various solutions.

    stickstuff.PNG

    The 6 on the left are N45 magnets 3/32" x 3/4". Stock is N42 in that size. A little can't hurt.
    This is for the build plate that I adapted the ceramic sheet to.
    I was using some slightly thicker magnets which should even out now.

    Big monsters on the right end are N52 1/8" x 3/4".
    I'm considering putting them on the Borosilicate glass plate.
    I successfully removed the previous mounted magnets.
    One was broken and the mismatch caused the adhesive cure to be different in thickness...
    meaning that it needed intervention in swapping plates by re-leveling it with the pads.

    Heated beds cannot use magnets.
    They loose magnetism very quickly at elevated temperatures.

  10. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    Heated beds cannot use magnets.
    They loose magnetism very quickly at elevated temperatures.
    That's why hair dryers use magnets for safety shutoff switch.

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  12. #30
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    Much better.

    Building on the borosilicate glass with cube glue again. I really like the way it takes PLA.
    I can see through the plate to see where it remained stuck.
    The part pops off easily and all the glue remains behind, waiting for a drop of water.

    This time I had better luck with keeping it level.
    The monster magnets seem to help with their slickness.
    I choose the enameled magnets so I can scuff it up a little.

    And I used black Shoe-Goo this time.

    bg.PNG

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