Aftermarket build plate?

[gadavis99]

Anyone have any luck with build plate replacements other than from 3DS? I had my first plate failure, with ABS sidewalks pulling up the alumina surface The $99 replacements are harsh, and I have some LokBuild on order, but was thinking longer term. I've spent time modifying carts to feed from bulk spools, I don't want these to end up out of commission due to not being able to get replacement parts.

Thanks,

GD

[TommyDee]

Alumina surface Hardly.

I'm finally having some luck with this. But alumina is not the material to stick too unless you have a heating situation figured out.

I put a 6" alumina square on mine. Now I am using tape for adhesion.

Truth be told, I suspect the original material is acrylic, and you can easily put acrylic back on there.
Peel off the old layer and there should be enough adhesive remaining to apply a new layer.

USE SAFETY GLASSES WHEN REMOVING THE OLD SURFACE... SHARP SHARDS WILL FLY!

[bolsoncerrado]

I think lokbuild is the simplest solution to a stock bed you can remove the white thing from.... Just "clean it" and apply lokbuild and you're done.

You wont even need glue/hairspray with it and PLA. For ABS you'll need heated bed no matter what.

[Programeitor3d]

I just tested it with tube glue and it seems to work pretty well .. !! It is economical, less than € 1 in store.
WhatsApp Image 2017-03-06 at 19.53.02.jpgWhatsApp Image 2017-03-06 at 19.53.50.jpg

[TommyDee]

Oh, contraire, Bo.

Two observations:
1) "just clean it" implies simplicity. There is nothing simple about removing the adhesive! It took major chemical aggression to remove the glue. As in Xylene!

2) I'm doing ABS (FINALLY) with very good results on a non-heated bed. But it does require a very specific tape... and glue on that. But it is working like a charm! And no sidewalks required (but optional).

However, your point is valid. Lokbuild will adhere right on top of the damaged plate.
Just make sure it is flat (sand it down if needed), fill the void under the damage area with a decent epoxy...
Re-flatten, and now apply the Lokbuild material.

Early plates have a different material. It cracks over time at the magnets (nothing backing it). Later plates will pit much easier at the nozzle, specially with ABS, but it doesn't seem to crack like the early ones.

I am eyeing the Lokbuild for my other printers, but my Franken-plate is holding up fine. Not what I had envisioned, but highly functional none the less.

PS: If you decide to clean up the plate as I did, be careful with the magnets. They break very easily if they slam together.
I have sourced the replacements in case it becomes necessary.

[bolsoncerrado]

My fears on ABS have always implied warping but i'll take your word on the adhesion

[TommyDee]

Funny thing is, the IPG tape lets go on the tape's adhesive side before it let's go of the part

HOW_STUCK.PNG

[Mythandar]

I think lokbuild is the simplest solution to a stock bed you can remove the white thing from.... Just "clean it" and apply lokbuild and you're done.

You wont even need glue/hairspray with it and PLA. For ABS you'll need heated bed no matter what.

Oh I don't know about that. I've been having really good luck with abs sticking to my lokbuild

[Exudos194]

Where do you guys buy your lokbuild from? im in the purchasing mood since i need to buy more quik connects to finish modding one of my carts.

[Mythandar]

Where do you guys buy your lokbuild from? im in the purchasing mood since i need to buy more quik connects to finish modding one of my carts.

I just went to the lokbuild website and they have a list of sellers there. Fore, being in Canada, the only Canadian seller was through amazon but the shipped from Calgary which is really close to me. Had mine within 2 days.

I like it enough that I bought another one to go on my Chinese knockoff prusa i3