Thanks Thanks:  2
Likes Likes:  5
Dislikes Dislikes:  1
Page 5 of 7 FirstFirst ... 34567 LastLast
Results 41 to 50 of 66
  1. #41
    3D Printer Noob
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Posts
    20
    Post Thanks / Like
    Wow thanks for the info!! better than I expected lol!! guess I'm chipping off this crummy acrylic, safety glasses!

  2. #42
    3D Printer God(dess)
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    1,489
    Post Thanks / Like
    There is a nasty layer of serious double stick glue under there!
    Even with Xylene, it took hours to clean up... and Xylene is a serious neurotoxin!
    Gloves, stiff breeze level ventilation, and a disposal bin at hand recommended if you go this route.

    Also consider putting a small vent hole through the plate. If you trap the air under the LokBuild, it could bulge when the plate heats up.
    Something in the neighborhood of a pin-prick is all that's needed.

    On new plates, I just put the LokBuild on top and let it act like the OEM plate. But someday I will drill the .020" hole in the 3 magnet spots.
    And while you're in there, you can also upgrade the magnets. I'm pretty sure I outlined all this somewhere here on the Cube 3 forum.
    Stock magnets are N42 3/4" diameter x 3/32 thick. I upgraded to 3/4" diameter x 0.1" thick... but they do make N52 magnets, but finding them in 3/32" or 0.1" is not quite as simple.

    Wear eye protection to remove the stock stuff!

  3. #43
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    3,067
    Post Thanks / Like
    Its like little alien tech, as it finds no issues with letters and different colors but it quickly detects debris and hairspray remains if you try to fool it lol

  4. #44
    3D Printer Noob
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Posts
    20
    Post Thanks / Like
    Haha I know right....

    Yea I just epoxy-ed the chips back in their place (it was like a little puzzle lol), sanded, and put the lokbuild on top of that.

    Thing is auto gap is acting funny on mine, sometimes it works but sometimes it sets the z too close. I auto-ed it up and the first print came out great!!! and came off pretty easy too!! But the second time it was too close and the extruder was clicking so I stopped it and had to scrape the PLA off the bed... it came off pretty easily and cleanly, the surface is still smooth to the touch, but the surface has glossy streaks on it where I scraped.... (drumroll please) pretty sure those streaks are screwing up the auto gap!!!

    How do you guys clean your lokbuild surfaces??

    But yeah I just manual z-gapped it and now it's printing like a dream on this lokbuild!!!

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Also us three all joined in November... the universe is funny sometimes lol

  5. #45
    3D Printer God(dess)
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    1,489
    Post Thanks / Like
    Go through the maintenance routine and set the default gap there (CAL1). I give it an extra 3mm just to make sure it never crashes... or 5mm gap for my glass plate conversion (magnets below the plate instead of in the plate). Don't forget the hidden button CAL2 for it to take effect!

    This also ensures I always set the gap manually.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. Thanks zugok thanked for this post
    Likes zugok liked this post
  7. #46
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    3,067
    Post Thanks / Like
    Ah! That brings the interesting question! If you dont press CAL2, it wont store it right?

  8. #47
    3D Printer God(dess)
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    1,489
    Post Thanks / Like
    You tell me. Make a huge gap without pressing CAL2 and see where it gaps to. This is what sets the initial gap in Auto-gap.

  9. #48
    3D Printer Noob
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Posts
    20
    Post Thanks / Like
    Hey thanks,

    I did all that jazz and yea it looks like I'm gonna have to manually set the gap for now. When I do the autogap it says it's successful, but the gap is ~0.3 mm too close. The first layer won't even extrude because its so close.

    And that 'Auto Cal' feature isn't even in the manual hahaha, how strange.

  10. #49
    Expert 3D Printer
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    479
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by MarkRon View Post
    Hey thanks,

    I did all that jazz and yea it looks like I'm gonna have to manually set the gap for now. When I do the autogap it says it's successful, but the gap is ~0.3 mm too close. The first layer won't even extrude because its so close.

    And that 'Auto Cal' feature isn't even in the manual hahaha, how strange.
    Whether you're using LokBuild or stock build plate, auto-gap has never been consistent. It's always best to do a manual gap. And the hidden Cal2 button helps to make sure the head never hits the plate, leaving an indent or worse. Like others, I make sure it is too high (for extra insurance) since I will always be doing manual gap.

  11. #50
    3D Printer Noob
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Posts
    12
    Post Thanks / Like
    Hello. I tried the method but the Cube 3 doesn’t finish the plate leveling. It tells me to clean it. How do you auto level it, when using glass?

 

 

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •