Thanks Thanks:  2
Likes Likes:  3
Dislikes Dislikes:  0
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 14 of 14
  1. #11
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Post Thanks / Like
    No, there's no such functionality (notifications on merging).

    On the tube in the nozzle, you said barrel nuts are crap. How do you solve this? Pics? tutorials? vids? howto for dummies?

  2. #12
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Post Thanks / Like
    That's why people are missing so many updates.

    No, the Lego Boat for the filament is not part of the OMG Method.

  3. #13
    Regular 3D Printer
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Post Thanks / Like
    Late to the game...Great stuff!

  4. #14
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Post Thanks / Like
    I'm bringing this hub thing back around.
    There are still many of you breaking into the secrets of this little marvel.
    There is such variety of functional solutions, I would like to keep them -all- alive.
    Obviously, there is no one ultimate solution.

    This thread was about tapping a thread into the filament driver mechanism to hold the Bowden tube fitting.
    For those who can make the mod, the mod being; to tap the mechanism to hold a fitting; the whole world gets simpler from there.

    A newly posted upgrade could allow the ability to spin the Bowden tube around as much as you want and the tubing will not shred at the fitting's grippers.
    This too takes a little work to achieve. Search "salvage" and "pc4-m5" as it does require a fairly sharp-edged groove to be cut in the 4mm OD of the tube.

    What I did in this latest incarnation is the go back to a set-n-forget spool of filament managed at the printer. That's a mouthful of variable interpretations but it simply means this:
    A stock 3DS spool that you can fill and manage in similar ways to the original 3DS spool.

    This entry continues best practices that have come out of these efforts.
    1st critical effort is to get the drive mechanism to feed filament properly without binding up. The only way I've been able to get this to work reliably is to adapt a small piece of brass tubing inside the drive mechanism complete with lead-in chamfers and a soldered band to hold it in place. I stuff filament in the in-going end, and it comes out through the tube reliably without hanging up. That is simply a tip, but notice that this does remove the barrel nut inside the mechanism which is a primary culprit in many cases, even on this end of the feed system. The tapping is fairly straight forward but if questions arise, of course, those can be answered.

    2nd critical effort was the handling of the cartridges. Even re-spooling can become a problem with older or harder filaments. Turns out that spooling filaments from a large OD to a small OD (new spool to the much smaller diameter of the stock spool can cause breaks) can be problematic. Respoolers have surfaced to manage that. A quick commercial break on the TV will do for a manual winding effort... twice.

    The 3rd critical effort has been the hub making process. They are successful but do have some drawbacks. Some require additional hardware; some are not available for modification. Some are simple and easy to print. But we are reinventing the very wheel we already have in our hands. This post is about simplifying the standard 3DS hub to make simple cartridges that keep some of the printer's elegance intact. Gone are the needs to take the plastics apart. If you want to use an external spool, just bypass the current spool. If you want almost a pound of filament to run and run and run... and run, then you only have one setup and until that filament is gone, nothing to worry about.
    A word about the stock cartridges... that being the locking tabs. These do break off. Know that there is a simple clamps here on the forum that will solve that if you clean up the area where the stock tab breaks off. You can see the white clamp in the original quoted image below (lower left).

    Anyway, this is where I am going with all this:


    Simply session with a Dremel.

    Considering a fixed nozzle using the same technique as the fixed tube in the driver mechanism.

    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    Last edited by TommyDee; 04-20-2018 at 08:23 PM.



Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts