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  1. #21
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    Aluminum is funny like that... it seems perfectly fine then then suddenly, it doesn't

    With the modular nozzle, you won't have to do this anymore.
    Just use purge or an aborted print to pull the filament from the nozzle when it is hot.

    That's been the best part of all this effort since the filament hack.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Once the primary hole is drilled and the path "smoothed" on the inside,
    carve a little of the upper barrel-nut support to make sure the tubing will not be kinked.

    Do you have the Dremel cutoff wheels or some rough grind stones in a Dremel kit?

    If not, you will probably need a medium-course file.

    You need to make a flat area to at least the centerline of the new hole.
    As perpendicular to the hole as possible. Only go about 5mm past the hole centerline.


    Next, you will drill a hole about 4.2mm diameter only about 4mm deep.
    This is where you will thread the housing with an M5 tap or the poor man's tap (M5 bolt with threads sharpened to act like a tap.)

    Then just follow the build plan.

  2. #22
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Now these are CHEAP!

    http://amzn.to/2qxRP0O

  3. #23
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    ....aaaaand there it goes!!


    My very first "FREEDOM PRINT!" with a Cube3





    Thanks once again, Tommy n Don! You made this possible hehe


    Ps. The hotend part is really a PITA!

  4. #24
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    ...and the biggest risk

  5. #25
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Now checking closer the broken (melted) hotend, It looks like "gray metal" rather than alu hmmm it has some shine on the broken part...

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by bolsoncerrado View Post
    Now these are CHEAP!

    http://amzn.to/2qxRP0O
    I have a set of these. They work well enough.
    Just don't turn the tube with them engaged.
    The metal grippers inside don't turn so they rasp away at the tubing.
    Hence the reason for the controlled filament swap procedure.

    The biggest limitation this method presents is removing the nozzle.
    1st remove the tube from the nozzle, then you can remove the nozzle.
    The reason this is important is to avoid pieces of Teflon falling inside the nozzle.
    Teflon won't burn, but it also won't melt.
    If prints ever begin looking quite "thin", this is probably the cause.
    Clean the tip and try again.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    The tip is aluminum, the tube is stainless steel.

    I suspect the tips are formed in a press to get that inner profile so smooth.

  7. #27
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Gotcha. And now I realize the small fitting tube from the nozzle tip to the pneumatic fitting lacks the metal clamp right?

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by bolsoncerrado View Post
    My very first "FREEDOM PRINT!" with a Cube3
    Hmmmm, I wonder what that is you are printing there...

    Quote Originally Posted by bolsoncerrado View Post
    Ps. The hotend part is really a PITA!
    It was even harder for me. I didn't do the 15 degree angle. Mine goes straight down. Doesn't leave much room for the threads. There is like 0 tolerance when doing it this way. I don't recommend doing it this way unless you have a lot of patience and a very steady hand. The tiniest slip will render it useless.

  9. #29
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    I did not put the barrel nut inside the nozzle module.

    I am very torn between needing it and working without it.

    I've been running them without the barrel nut.
    I've had one short tube too long and it closed in around the ends.
    Once trimmed, no more problems.

    Except maybe one... I can consider the barrel nut useful in fixing the tube.
    This may provide a little better "plosive" control from trapped air (tractor gaps).
    The only filament I've had trouble with in this respect is the Inline ABS... which under all other conditions, works great.
    When I put this ABS into a stock cartridge, it definitely behaved better (way less and lower amplitude plosives).

    So having said no, there is still an open question here.
    Just make sure the filament runs freely though the nut if you decide to use it.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    I have a bunch of zero degree print-heads now.
    I decided not to bother modifying them.
    They still work great with the splice fix or stock carts.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    And what does he do? Turns around and salvages the one I thought was toast!

    Has a 4mm tube straight neck nozzle mod. Gave up the 4mm tube idea a long time ago.

    Today I managed a heavily modified fitting to thread into the housing.
    This one has the barrel nut inside to test it.
    Interesting thought...
    Join two tubes at the barrel nut!
    (rather than thread the nut all that way!)

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    Join two tubes at the barrel nut!
    (rather than thread the nut all that way!)
    I tried that. There wasn't enough thread at the end to hold them sufficiently. They came undone.

    It might work inside the hotend where movement is restricted though.

 

 

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