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  1. #31
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    Running a 4 hour test run on the mod.

    I threaded the tubes with a 2mm mandrel.
    It has no where to go.

    Not an optimum solution, but certainly worth salvage.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    How many people know how to solder and have access to a hardware store or hobby shop?

  2. #32
    Expert 3D Printer
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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    How many people know how to solder and have access to a hardware store or hobby shop?
    Me ^^^^^^^

  3. #33
    Expert 3D Printer
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    Quote Originally Posted by MegaloDon View Post
    Me ^^^^^^^
    I do...........

  4. #34
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Me too lol whatsup!?

  5. #35
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    That's a majority then

    What is we were to thread the 4mm tubing into a captured M4 hex nut?

    If the nut was brass, it could be soldered into a brass tube;
    ...and that, in turn, can be soldered to an M5 or M6 brass screw;
    ...which could have a 2mm hole drilled through it.
    Now you have a poor man's threadable fitting for 4mm tubing.
    Steam-Punk enough for you?

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Time for an update:

    I've been running the salvaged vertical entry extruder with the fitting threaded into it.
    This one I added the barrel nut to the internal tube. Actually, I joined two short tubes at the barrel nut.

    It did what I expected. It doesn't always (read: rarely) pull out the entire melt-bulb when hot.
    This simple means that it may start a print with the previous color unless you purge a little extra.
    Not a big deal unless you have OCD or pleasing a critical audience.
    Still bodes poorly for swapping ABS and PLA in the same nozzle too.

    The versions without the barrel nut is pretty consistent about pulling out the melt-bulb.
    Still worried that this is causing issues with ABS though as the tractor indentions tent to draw air
    into the print causing "plosives" that keep from making smooth and well adhered prints.

    salvage.PNG

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  7. #36
    3D Printer Noob
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    I did this, but pulled the tubing from inside the hot end out through the hole. I then used a Festo 3mm to 3mm push connector and connected the 2 pieces of tubing. WORKS GREAT!

  8. #37
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    Sounds like a twist on the vertical entry update we did a while back.

    Please clarify... I joined the 2 short tubes at the barrel nut.

    Is that the setup you have, or is the nut screwed onto a single tube like stock?

  9. #38
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    IMG_2477.jpgThis is what I used. The tubing connected to the nozzle was cut at the end where it connected to the cartridge. I then pulled it up through the drilled hole and connected it with the festo connection. That part has worked great!

  10. #39
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    Cool! That means the barrel nut is installed as it was originally installed.

  11. #40
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    Yes Sir, just open it up and slide it back and cut it where it meets the ridged part. the remove the hot end and drill. Once the hole is there, reinstall the hot end as normal and pull the pipe through the hole. The festo connector takes care of the rest.

 

 

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