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  1. #11
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Go for a laptop powersource for the bed alone, installing a power controller in between. bq Hephestos and Hephestos 2 just got an official heated bed upgrade with this exact policy setup.

  2. #12
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    These guys are just bundling an old PC power supply for the heated bed...

    https://3k8g8c3p564l1zjnb621d3aoii6-...-ATX-Combo.jpg

  3. #13
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Neat if you have the space hehe

  4. #14
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    The thing is, you don't need a freaking power supply.
    Raw AC power is more than enough if it is safe.
    All you need is a thermal switch connected to a thermistor.
    That little unit is under $10/USD.
    Many of the silicon heaters meet that requirement just fine.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Now that I am looking at my printer with a clear glass bed, I noticed something...
    Why stick to the magnet system?
    Just remove the carrier from the slide carriage (2 screws) and design your own from there.
    Silver solder can manage hobby brass near the heated plate.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Update:

    Today I removed the magnets Shoe-Goo'd to the Borosilicate plate. I have a few more coming; stronger stock and thicker ones.
    There simply is no way to get away with magnets and a heated bed unless they are isolated.

    I'm considering heating the 1mm thick alumina plate. It is light weight and perfectly flat.

    As to the mount, I missed the fact that the apex magnet also has a set screw and can be removed easily.
    Buggered-up threads on the magnet-stubs is something to deal with.
    If you do remove the magnet posts from the aluminum carrier, do yourself a favor and clean up the threads (de-burr) and get some nylon tipped set screws.

    Anyway, this is a nice triangle to mount a support plate. One hole would be a clearance hole at the apex and the other two can be directly mounted.

    Now, what's a good way to hold a thin delicate build plate?

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    Now, what's a good way to hold a thin delicate build plate?
    Roofing nails?

  6. #16
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Now I was wondering....since the bed has some space left on both sides and can definetly go longer in the Y axis, and since the heads move to outside position to wipe filament....couldnt the firm be tweaked to allow even more printing area?

  7. #17
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    You could rebuild the y-drive if you want. It is carriage travel tat is limited now.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    I finally broke down and purchased a 12V 120W 12cm x 12cm heater pad on eBay.
    I figure the edges will heat-soak at some point, but I rarely build that far to the edge anyway.

    This also leaves some edge to the alumina plate to grab onto in the modified carrier I am working on.

    Cheapest solution and easy enough to manage.

    USA: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-12x12cm-...YAAOSwWxNYtAwk

    Canada: http://www.ebay.com/itm/12x12cm-120W...AAAOSwSlBYtRfe

    Canada exchange rate makes it cheaper for US buyers, but what's $0.80.

    True... ~10%

  8. #18
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    U didnt buy a temp controller?

  9. #19
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    I'm going for a constant current solution.
    Then my input voltage doesn't matter too much.
    And it doesn't have that thermal hysteresis problem.

    I will probably put a read-back on the temp sensor.

    120W is not so dangerous. 200+... yea, more precautions.

    12cm heater is here!

    - - - - - - - - - -

    No one working on this anymore?

    Question, any one find any references where a heated alumina ceramic plate will stick ABS directly at the right temperature? ~120*C or so.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by TommyDee; 05-17-2017 at 09:12 PM.

  10. #20
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    What about PEI sheets? Seem they're a must for ABS printing....

 

 

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