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  1. #1
    3D Printer Noob
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    Cube3: T24 Error Code + Solution

    Hey folks, I've been seeing some messages about T24 errors, funny I only bothered to google after I resolved my issue. I had bought a Cube 3 from ebay about a week ago and when it began a print, ti would never get hot enough, and T24 would occur. I figured out that when i temporarily stop the center cooling fan with tape, the hotend ould reach temp and start printer. That's not a permanent solution as keeping that fan taped off caused the nozzle to overheat and cause a filament jam. the real solution? take apart your printer to get to the hot end assembly, take the assembly off the X gantry and take it apart to get to the heat sink. Cover that bad boy with Kapton tape, making sure to cut out holes for the filament nozzles. once you put everything back together, T24 issues no more. The large cooling fan will no longer cool the heater block down. Hope this helps anyone who is comfortable enough to take their machines apart. A couple pics:






  2. #2
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    Welcome to the forum, ugn100. In the images you have a horizontal seam on the build plate for a repair, I assume.
    Where did you find the matching material? From another cube, or did you source it?

    Interesting on the temp errors. You're saying the heater blocks were being overcooled?

  3. #3
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Thanks for the pix @ugn100

    Do you happen to take any pics of the ammended extruder before remounting everything back?


    Are those benchy 200 vs 70 micron?

  4. #4
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    @ TommyDee, Thanks! The build plate actually came with divots taken out of it from when someone forcefully removed a print, not useable that way, so I covered the white surface with white masking tape, it took 3 strips, thats why you see the seams. it did well enough to cover the divots and make a smooth enough surface. I was worried it would affect the autocalibrating, but it didn't. I also used white glue stick instead of the cube glue (which I don't have).
    The machine came with 2 rolls of filament at 99%, so I'm using cubify filament (PLA). Once it is done, I intend on trying other PLAs, and possibly some PETG. Since I have the tweeked firmware, I'm going to run them through the existing cartridge and see what happens. It seems that the cube 3 runs PLA at 230 degrees, quite hot for PLA, but also good for PETG.
    I've build quite a few repraps, and have designed my own delta. One of the issues I had was the hotend cooling down once the print fan kicked in. My solution then was the cover the heat block with Kapton tape, and I just carried that solution over to the cube 3. I can't say if it's a design flaw in the cube 3, or if the heaters degrade over time and become less powerful, if it's a voltage issue, or if the fans are configured to spin too fast, but stopping the center fan directly affected the print jet temp, so the heat block is getting cooled too much.


    @bolsoncerrado, you're very welcome. I unfortunately did not. I only find out that other users were having the same issues after I had done my repair. You need to take off the cover, and unscrew the x axis rail to gain access to the hotend assembly. There are a couple screws in the assembly, but most of it is snap-fit together.
    Correct, the left one is 200, right one 70. It's prints beautifully, but the mistakes I see on the print are issues with the slicer, and I've read the other threads that have a way to use Cura, which I plan on testing out.


    I'm here to help so ask away with any questions.

  5. #5
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    I ended up popping the bottom cap off at one point.
    If you push a nozzle in too hard before you rotate, this happens, apparently.

    This should get you to the difficult to access screws.

    Some day the blisters on the tips of my fingers will heal.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    I ended up popping the bottom cap off at one point.
    If you push a nozzle in too hard before you rotate, this happens, apparently.

    This should get you to the difficult to access screws.

    Some day the blisters on the tips of my fingers will heal.
    Hopefully those aren't burn blisters, although that's the right of passage for 3d printer owners

  7. #7
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    Oh yes, very burned... white skin and everything.

  8. #8
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    So the benchy that looks much better is after your modification?

  9. #9
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    No that one is 70micron vs the 200 one

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by bolsoncerrado View Post
    No that one is 70micron vs the 200 one
    Yea pretty much. My modifications had nothing really to do with quality, and everything to do with functionality. I converted my filament cartridges to use PTFE teflon bowden tubing since the existing tubing rips when broken filament gets pushed through via the extruder. I also put push-fit connectors on the hot end and the cartridge so the tubing can be removed in case of jams (Although with all those prints, haven't had 1 jam yet).

    I actually made a reddit post summarizing my initial experiences, and some more pics in case anyone is interested: https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/...e_3_tinkering/

 

 

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