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  1. #1
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    Cube 3 Extruder Hub (Cartridge replacement)

    I posted a new fully functioning version of this here:
    http://www.print3dforum.com/showthre...-The-Filament)

    This older version is not complete and it will not get completed! It has been replaced by the new version.

    WARNING!!
    This is a work in progress. It is fully functional as is, but some features are not working yet. !! Use at your own risk !!

    1.JPG

    This is intended to completely replace the cartridges and get less jams and better print quality.
    Removing the cartridge cover to fix jams is a pain in the butt. At least for me. And having to take the cartridge off to change filament is clunky at best.

    This was intended to be an end to end solution. It combines elements from other users, such as using the quick connects and a modified version of TommyDee's clamp. (I gotta say, I love the way Tom designed the break-away supports on that.)

    This is designed to not have to remove the cartridge unless there is a jam in the feeder (I have yet to encounter one).
    The 2 tabs on the front are for disengaging the drive motor so you can turn it without fighting it. This is neccessary to change the filament during a purge.
    Retraction is MUCH better with this mod. You don't get that clacking sound at all when it retracts and it doesn't leave those buggers on the top nearly as bad as with the cartridge. It is almost as good as my Prusa i3.
    It is much easier to feed in new filament since I added a guide that brings it directly to the drive gear.
    I added a feature to switch between ABS and PLA chips so you will never have to remove the "Hub" (once the gear has been figured out). Hence you won't need to have one for ABS and one for PLA. (Chip_Changer_1.2.stl)




    The mount plate needs a small piece of tubing with a barrel nut. You can just use what is already in there and cut the tubing flush to the outside of the metal housing.
    Tube.JPG

    I had to cut a piece off the top half of the drive mechanism to be able to access the gear (still working on the gear).
    Cut.JPG

    It uses the original screws, except it uses 4 of the countersunk ones. So you'll have to get 2 from another cartridge.



    If you just want it fully functioning as is, print everything except the ones that start with WIP_. (You will need to print 2 of "Release.stl" and 2 of "Spring_Cap.stl")



    Download the files here >>> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B6...DBPaEVjQ3lZVEk


    This is a completely assembled model (except for the gear and springs) for reference >>> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B6...HJQU21WeUpkb2s
    The parts are separate shells so if you open this in Meshmixer, you can hide or show the separate parts.
    I shouldn't have to say this but DO NOT ATTEMPT TO PRINT THIS!!.

    The 1 thing I am having problems with is as follows:
    The gear does not print well. I am trying to find a cheap source for a metal or maybe even nylon gear.



    The screws that I used on this are as follows (Sorry if I don't know the correct nomenclature for these. I'm not an engineer.)
    From left to right in the pic:
    #4 x 3/8 (x3 for "Fitting.stl")
    #4 x 5/8 (x3 for "Chip_Holder.stl")
    I don't know the sizing convention for this but they are 3.37 mm OD on the thread and I cut them down to 33 mm length (x2 for "Release.stl") (No nuts required. They thread into the plastic.)
    Screws.JPG

    I got the spring from my local hardware store and is as follows:
    I don't know if this is a standard number for springs, but they refer to it as a #169. The dimensions are 1/2" x 3-9/16"

    Spring.JPG


    Also, I should add that every part is designed to print on the Cube 3 with Cube Print software at 200 microns. I did this because not everyone has a printer other than the Cube 3 and not everyone wants to use 3rd party software. This is important because, for example, if I try to print a part on my Prusa, the tolerances are not the same. Precision is vital to making this work.




    This is the thread on how to modify the hotend >>> http://www.print3dforum.com/showthre...-Nozzle-Module
    Thanks Tom

    ##### UPDATE ##### 5/12/2017

    1. Added a chip changer to the chip holder. Chip holder has been redesigned as well. It will hold 3 chips so you can switch between PLA, ABS, and Rinse Away. It is designed to be able to put the changer on either side.

    Front.PNG Back.PNG

    2. I changed the printed spring to a metal spring because the printed one wears out very quickly. I kept the old model in the zip in case anyone still wants it. I will most likely be removing it in the near future.
    Last edited by MegaloDon; 06-19-2017 at 01:51 AM.

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  3. #2
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    I'm looking forward to making some of these.

  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mythandar View Post
    I'm looking forward to making some of these.
    Do you need more instructions or can you figure it out from the reference model?

    I plan on adding instructions, but I'm still trying to get my thoughts together. LOL I'm a lot better at figuring things out than I am at explaining them afterwards.

    I will update the first post as soon as I figure out how to explain it. If you have specific questions, let me know.

  5. #4
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    For the most part it all looks fairly straight forward. Only questions I have are, what fitting is the top threads made for? I may modify it for the fittings I have on hand if needed. Also, how do you remove the chip?

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mythandar View Post
    Only questions I have are, what fitting is the top threads made for?
    They are m5 fittings.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mythandar View Post
    Also, how do you remove the chip?
    I used an exacto knife. But be careful, it is easy to break the tip.

  7. #6
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    Quick question before I open the ZIPs... you used the metal screws on both models? Or just the WIP one?
    The issues you name 1 to 3 apply only to the WIP one or to both?

    BTW would u mind showing also what did you do on the hotend part? Exact drilling guide used, sizes, tubes used, etc

  8. #7
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    They are stuck down with a foam tape.
    If you can tip it a little and help it with another sharp edge.
    Eventually you will get an edge under the chip.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Don, can you drill though the stock gear and the housing and file the hole square?

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Also, Don; There is a huge amount of pressure between the bearing and the gear. You are literally crushing ~5% of the 1.75mm filament. That is not easy.
    When you print the seats, it is not solid. Lateral displacement is the space that remains between layer printed stripes. You know how they separate easily when you have a 2 layer wall(?)... it is this clearance that the tension between the bearings is taking up, making the gap larger under pressure. That is the primary reason I wasn't going to try to replace the metal housing.

  9. #8
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    This guy has modified carts to do the old cart swap trick for bulk filament. A switch can be used to switch between if an PLA or ABS chip are being read. I can picture in my mind how to do it, just can't describe it very well. I imagine we shouldn't have too much of an issue adding this.

    Last edited by Mythandar; 04-30-2017 at 06:00 PM.

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by bolsoncerrado View Post
    Quick question before I open the ZIPs... you used the metal screws on both models? Or just the WIP one?
    The countersunk ones are for the WIP version only. All the rest are needed for both versions.

    Quote Originally Posted by bolsoncerrado View Post
    The issues you name 1 to 3 apply only to the WIP one or to both?
    Just the WIP version.

    Quote Originally Posted by bolsoncerrado View Post
    BTW would u mind showing also what did you do on the hotend part? Exact drilling guide used, sizes, tubes used, etc
    The hotend is the same as Tom and others are using. I'll have to find the link for those instructions. Is there a thread just for that, or is it buried in one of the other threads? We tend to get off topic a lot in here.

    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    Don, can you drill though the stock gear and the housing and file the hole square?
    I don't have the tools to do that. And I'm guessing most other people don't either.

    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    Also, Don; There is a huge amount of pressure between the bearing and the gear. You are literally crushing ~5% of the 1.75mm filament. That is not easy.
    When you print the seats, it is not solid. Lateral displacement is the space that remains between layer printed stripes. You know how they separate easily when you have a 2 layer wall(?)... it is this clearance that the tension between the bearings is taking up, making the gap larger under pressure. That is the primary reason I wasn't going to try to replace the metal housing.
    I had thought about using a dremel with a cutting wheel to cut off the part blocking the gear on the top piece.
    Cut.JPG
    But since the gear doesn't currently work and may be a complete redesign, it's a moot point right now.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mythandar View Post
    This guy has modified carts to do the old cart swap trick for bulk filament. A switch can be used to switch between if an PLA or ABS chip are being read. I can picture in my mind how to do it, just can't describe it very well. I imagine we shouldn't have too much of an issue adding this.
    I had the same thought initially, as I had already done this myself before the firmware hack. His wire wrapped thingy didn't work well at all, so I cut a piece off an old circuit board and used that instead.
    Chip.JPG

    I actually came up with a better idea that doesn't require a switch, wire, or soldering. I haven't worked out the details yet, but the basic concept is to have a little "tray" that has 2 chips glued to it. One PLA and one ABS. The tray would be able to slide up and down to switch between the 2 chips. Of course a third chip could be added for the rinse away filament.

    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    A complete set would be 5 chips. You need 3 positions for the left and 4 for the right. ABS/PLA/NONE and ABS/PLA/INF/NONE
    NONE is an important option to maintain.
    Why is NONE important?

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    When you print the seats, it is not solid.
    Do you think printing it with KISSlicer or another slicer with 100% infill would help, or does the plastic itself have too much give?
    Last edited by MegaloDon; 04-30-2017 at 08:21 PM.

  11. #10
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    M. that was the switch mod that was being touted before the hack was started.

    I don't think it actually worked and was highly problematic in keeping the sequence straight.

    However, today may be a different case.
    With the f/w mod, you could permanently configure your cube for anything by simply flipping switches and confirming your setting on the display.

    A complete set would be 5 chips. You need 3 positions for the left and 4 for the right. ABS/PLA/NONE and ABS/PLA/INF/NONE
    NONE is an important option to maintain.
    The diagram below shows 3 switches where INF is either selected or bypassed.
    If INF is bypassed, it enables the R-PLA/NONE/ABS string.
    If INF is selected, it disables the R-PLA/NONE/ABS string.

    All of this can be brought into the machine with an exposed pair of switches.

    This you might like...

    This covers all valid options for deQube:

    deQube_fixedchip.PNG

    ...and the on-off-on switch (3 position DPDT)

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toggle-Switc...-/112231548491

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by MegaloDon View Post
    The countersunk ones are for the WIP version only. All the rest are needed for both versions.


    Just the WIP version.


    The hotend is the same as Tom and others are using. I'll have to find the link for those instructions. Is there a thread just for that, or is it buried in one of the other threads? We tend to get off topic a lot in here.

    tommy - http://www.print3dforum.com/showthread.php/946-Cube-3-Extruder-Nozzle-Module


    I don't have the tools to do that. And I'm guessing most other people don't either.
    tommy- Unless it is hardened, a normal drill/dremel and a small hobby file.


    I had thought about using a dremel with a cutting wheel to cut off the part blocking the gear on the top piece.
    Cut.JPG
    But since the gear doesn't currently work and may be a complete redesign, it's a moot point right now.


    I had the same thought initially, as I had already done this myself before the firmware hack. His wire wrapped thingy didn't work well at all, so I cut a piece off an old circuit board and used that instead.

    tommy - consider a flip-chip carrier. Install the chips back to back and flip the carrier.

    Chip.JPG

    I actually came up with a better idea that doesn't require a switch, wire, or soldering. I haven't worked out the details yet, but the basic concept is to have a little "tray" that has 2 chips glued to it. One PLA and one ABS. The tray would be able to slide up and down to switch between the 2 chips. Of course a third chip could be added for the rinse away filament.


    Why is NONE important?
    tommy - because the system acts differently when a cartridge is not installed.

    - - - - - - - - - -


    Do you think printing it with KISSlicer or another slicer with 100% infill would help, or does the plastic itself have too much give?

    tommy - No, even solid plastic will not help much. The second problem is that the smooth "gear" only has a single supported end. How do you keep it perpendicular under strain? Plastic will just give.


    - - - - - - - - - -

    Darn, another gotcha with merged threads... they don't fully quote ...and now it shows
    Last edited by TommyDee; 04-30-2017 at 10:23 PM.

 

 

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